Showing posts with label Leon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Leon. Show all posts

Friday, June 14, 2019

Camino: Thoughts from this Adventure

How do you pull together your thoughts from an adventure like this Camino?

Do you focus on the history & spiritual side of the Camino? Dwell on the beautiful countryside? Or perhaps think back on the many lovely people who entered your life?  Maybe it's best to crystalize what personal learnings you can take away from the journey?

Or do you focus on the physical side of things- the way your muscles grew to crave movement & the simple fluidity of walking? How good it felt to taste fresh orange juice after walking for a few hours. Or the wonderful smell of fresh clean laundry or warm soft bread.

Uncategorically, I can say that this Camino was worth every hour of thought & preparation & I would do it again in a heartbeat. Why?

I enjoyed the challenge. I liked setting a goal & overcoming obstacles to achieve it. I liked self-sufficiency. I liked being faced with unpleasantness & choosing to ignore it & power through. I know, most people would find that strange. The Camino was good for me with its measurable progress toward a goal. And the sellos were colorful reminders of progress &  dandy reasons to take time to investigate churches & cafes along the route.

I liked not knowing what is around every corner. While I felt well-read on the Camino, I felt constantly surprised & intrigued. I liked getting ridiculously excited about simple things like a red poppy in a big field of yellow flowers or a hammock set up by a food truck in the woods. When I felt tired or was in pain, I liked finding the positive & humming a favorite song to put me in a splendid mood. I liked running into folks who brightened my day.

I liked fighting through the language & surviving on pantomimes to communicate (try explaining jousting in Spanish!).  I liked sitting quietly at dinner or on the trail & listening to the many languages & accents surrounding me. I liked that I had daily conversations on wide ranging topics with folks from wildly different backgrounds & no one got riled up or argumentative. It struck me how we can all be so different but all working toward the same common goal. Together.

I liked epiphanies I had on the trail.

One was about signs. I was alone while navigating into Pamplona, my first big city along the Camino. With the sudden glut of people, traffic, street signs & noise, I found it hard to focus & find the trail signs. After I missed a lovely riverside path I began to question my decisions. The signs & arrows hadn't changed but my ability to find them had been altered. There were small signs like metal shells in the walkway. Off in the distance from time to time, there were big ones. I felt discomfort when I didn't have a fellow pilgrim to confirm decisions. It hit me how this is a lot like decisions in life. We look for big signs right in front of us to hit us over the head so we are clear on exactly what we need to do. Often the little ones are right there in front of us- just when we need them. We don't need to necessarily depend on others but can trust that we will make the right decisions & often if they aren't correct, they are correctable & everything will still be OK. And by the way, I made it fine into Pamplona & had a splendid day on my own.

Another was about how I would spend my time. I came into this Camino thinking I would relish glorious time alone & would plop down under trees to sketch & paint almost daily. I learned that while I liked days alone to keep my own schedule that I actively sought out lively conversation with most everyone I met. And I found I like to keep people in my world
by reaching out when I hadn't seen them in a while, just to be sure they were doing well. I think of myself as a bit of an introvert so I especially enjoyed these one-on-one more meaningful interactions. As for that painting, it quickly morphed into making minute-long videos to capture and save the memories I made. There is still time to paint when I get home.

I also had no sense of how long it would take for daily hygienic tasks like getting packed, fed, laundered in addition to the obvious hours of walking & sleeping. I didn't recognize how impatient I could get with a simple thing like siesta. The idea of closing down an entire town for three hours during prime business hours was beyond my comprehension. After a few weeks, it felt normal & I just adjusted my tasks to fit around it. I admit, I still had problems with the late restaurant opening times on the Camino. That was my stomach ruling my head. 

I'm still noodling over how I want to keep my Camino alive in my day-to-day life back home. I realized how much I valued short calls home & how I looked forward ever so much to talking daily with my husband who constantly supported me in this adventure. I realized how much I enjoyed pulling back from media & now am attempting to enjoy music not TV. I am also going to have to kick a nasty cafe con leche habit & give up full bottles of Rioja on a daily basis. Baby steps.

Thanks to all those who provided insight, ideas, assurance, mental support & kept the wheels on back home while on this adventure. And thanks to my two adventurous friends, Laura & Betty, who met me during the Camino to share parts of the experience- their humor & friendship made the trip so much richer. And thanks to my husband, Jeff, who constantly nurtures my craving for adventure & while he wants no part of a hike this long, was nothing but supportive throughout this process. He will be glad to not hear about the "C" word for a while. At least until the next Camino...




Wednesday, June 12, 2019

Camino: Gratitudes on The Way

Back home, there are so many things I feel grateful for. My wonderful & loving husband; witty, caring & dependable friends; my health; the beautiful nature that surrounds me; an abundance of opportunity to grow & learn; a life rich with travel & experiences. The list goes on & on. I know & recognize- I am truly blessed.

On the Camino, when your daily activities & rituals are peeled back to basics, your priorities

often change. It's Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs. When you are just trying to meet your physiological and safety needs, you really aren't focusing on self-actualization.

I can't tell you how many little things brought a smile to my lips or an honest-to-goodness cheer. This list was the brainchild of Marie, a member of my "Camino Family." It's not extensive or complete & I'm always "grateful" for ideas & new items. Marie, sadly, had to cut her Camino short due to illness. I know she will be back to make this list more robust...

On this Camino I've been grateful for:

  • Rooms near the stairs or on the first floor
  • Olive oil for bread
  • Laundry service or machines
  • Shoes with lots of toe room
  • Early breakfast
  • My drugs of choice- cafe con leche & zumo de naranja naturale
  • Local town markets
  • Stores open during siesta
  • Hot showers (& a hook or shelf for your stuff)
  • Pilgrim masses
  • happy "Buen Caminos" directed my way all day
  • Plugs by your bed/bunk
  • Decent & free weefee
  • People who smiled as I butchered the Spanish language
  • working ATMs that didn't eat my card
  • Comfortable shoes
  • Voltaren, Aquafor, Injingi toe socks & New Skin in my footcare arsenal
  • good weather
  • dark chocolate
  • O'Cebreiro cheese & honey
  • Hearing someone speak English (so I don't have to think for a bit)
  • Tree tunnels on the trail
  • Settling into your own pace, rhythm & footcare regimen (that works!)
  • Cold pools & rivers from soaking feet
  • Courtyards with real grass for yoga & stretching
  • Vino tinto that you can somehow drink all night and NOT get a headache
  • Red poppies
  • Fun & unexpected food trucks/ surprises along the trail
  • A sign for a cafe/bar on a long hot portion of the trail
  • The crunching sound the stones make under your feet when you walk
  • A bench to prep feet or adjust boots
  • Aubergues & hostals that take pride in making pilgrim experiences special
  • Hours of interesting conversation with a fellow pilgrim that makes time fly
  • creative sellos with good ink
  • Finding a ladies room with TP & being able to take over the Caballeros room with no line
  • Big drying racks
  • Hearing a half dozen languages at one dinner table
  • Pharmacists that specialize in pilgrim ailments
  • Locals that aleert you when you aren't on the correct path
  • cyclists who use their bells
  • Messages left along the trail by other pilgrims to make you smile
  • Well-marked trails
  • the wonderful variety of shells & different signage used on the Camino by various towns & regions
  • Vast, fertile open countryside
  • WhatsApp & good pilgrim apps
  • Knowing somehow that a person you've only known for a short time will be a part of your life in the distant future
  • KT/Leukotape that somehow sticks in place for days
  • Being able to leave your pack sitting in a brightly colored row on the ground right outside a cafe
  • Seeing so many heartfelt comments from home when you check in- all cheering for you & thanking you for taking them along on this adventure
Keep 'em coming...





Thursday, May 30, 2019

Camino: Trabadela to O'Cebreiro

30/05/19
In many ways, today is one of the tougher days on the Camino Frances. You've put together a string of hilly & rocky days to get to this point. In our case, temps are rising, making hikes a bit uncomfortable. I'll quit my bitching & get after this mountain.

We enjoyed a long stretch to Herrerias- scenic vistas, rolling hills, green for miles, motivational quotes painted on rocks & frequent small towns with cafes.

In addition to climbing to O'Cebreiro today, we'll be entering the Galicia region. Fiercely independent, Galicia has their own distinct dialect & different words than my Spanish so far. It's known for its gusty winds from the west, rain & colder temperatures and several unique dishes... caldo gallego (a local hot soup),pulpo (octopus dusted with olive oil & paprika) and tarta de Santiago (a famous almond tart.) And then there is the famous O'Cebreiro cheese & honey.  I probably should have eaten before writing this section.

Back to the mountain. It is possible to rent a horse for the steep ride up to O'Cebreiro. Those of us who don't opt for that approach get to enjoy the scent following the trail horses. We stepped gingerly on narrow trails. I'm a big "pull the bandaid off" person so I scampered up the miles of incline to end the pain quickly. I was greeted by welcoming signs to Galicia and then a bit farther along, with exceptional views of O'Cebreiro. 

This tiny hamlet barely looks as if it has been touched by progress. Rock buildings, thatched huts, stone paths & minimal overt tourism make O'Cebreiro seem as if it has been in a time capsule. The tiny church is lovely & is the final resting place of Don Elias Valina Sampedro, the parish priest credited with preserving the integrity of the Camino and clearly marking the route with consistent brightly-colored yellow arrows.

We were fortunate to have space in the tiny inn to avoid further travel that day. Betty got her first pulpo. We did laundry.  Life is good.

20k to O'Cebreiro (population 50)














Wednesday, May 29, 2019

Camino: Villafranca del Bierzo to Trabadela

29/05/19
Today was a short but hilly day designed to leave us fresh for tomorrow's steep climb up to O'Cebreiro.

The choice, as our direct German friend Nicole put it is, "take the main Ruta Carratera path which is flat & ugly or take the alternative Via Pradela which is hard but pretty." We opted for beauty & were rewarded with stunning views along the Valcarce valley. Luckily, the morning was shady and cooler as we huffed & puffed up the mountain trail. At one point, we had to forge our own steep path to find our way down to the tiny village of Trabadela.

Trabadela was just what the hiking Gods ordered for today. We found a sunny cafe with space to spread out to paint & journal. A bottle of wine & lunch late & life was looking pretty good. After a fresh vegan dinner, we declared the day a success & tucked in to rest for the big climb tomorrow.

12k to Trabadelo (population 450)








Tuesday, May 28, 2019

Camino: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

28/05/19
First of all, it is hard to believe I have been on the trail one month today. But on the other hand, it seems like I have been traveling the path for a long time.

Today was one of those days that I knew nothing about when I started. No one had alerted me to spectacular sights or drop dead views. Boy, did that change as the day progressed. In fact, this stage was one of my favorite on the Camino.

Betty elected to stay in Ponferrada to enjoy the Templar Castle & nurse some foot issues. I left early with fellow pilgrim, Nicole. She greeted me with a chocolate croissant (always a good omen)  & we quickly took in the street art & small neighborhood churches on the outskirts of the city as we strolled out of Ponferrada. We happened into a pilgrim winery offering tapas & wine tasting on the trail. While there, we picked up other interesting travelers.

As we navigated a forest path, around a bend was a slice of heaven. A festive food truck with healthy treats was tucked in amongst the foliage. It featured a full living room, complete with sofa, chairs, TV, a hammock & a picnic table. They even had a cute dog who singled me out as the weak link to most likely to give him some queso. After filling our bellies & bidding adieu, we immediately happened into a man selling big paper cones full of local cherries.  If my head wasn't already about to explode, we then ended up in the picture postcard town of Cacabellas with its tiny ivy-covered inns, creative murals & historic churches.  Needing a final bit of energy for the last portion of the hike, we ended up in a quirky donativo aubergue serving up fresh juice & good karma. Fortified, we energetically covered the final 10k through vineyards on our way into delightful Villafranca del Bierzo. 

Our posada was directly on the Plaza Mayor convenient to restaurants and, even more importantly, a gelato shop, for our evening stroll through the parks of Villafranca & along the historic mansions of Calle del Agua.

26k to Villafranca del Bierzo (population 5000)



My nightmare job


A wonderful oasis in the woods

A break for a zuma

Adorable Cacabellas

Keep growing. I'll keep drinking


Monday, May 27, 2019

Camino: El Acebo to Ponferrada

27/05/19
Another long downhill day but luckily, with less stony path. Even so, we opted for the quiet road for some portions. 

Molinaseca was a lovely gem of a town. Tucked along the Rio Meruela, Molinaseca makes a grand entrance as you cross the medieval Puente del Peregrino over the dammed river, making for a perfect refreshing dip for tired peregrino toes. Imagine plopping down for a drink at a riverside cafe then waltzing down to the water for an ice cold foot bath.

We continued through vineyards as we entered the outskirts of Ponferrada (Spanish for iron bridge.) I had no idea the city was this expansive. It has survived & flourished due to its fortification with a river, fort & a spectacular Templar castle. Its size allows for numerous plazas & ornate churches.

15k into Ponferrada (population 69,000)


Blink & you will miss lovely Riego de Ambros


Nothing beats a cold dip when your feet are hot & tired




Our room with a view in Ponferrada



Sunday, May 26, 2019

Camino: Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo


25/05/19
Today was one of the "big days" you always hear about when planning your Camino- Cruz de Ferro.

Cruz de Ferro, the tall wooden pole topped with an iron cross, sits atop one of the highest points on the Camino Frances.The monument was supposedly originally erected by the Celts, then dedicated by the Romans before later being renamed as a Christian site. Pilgrims bring a stone to represent a burden they wish to leave on the Camino. I chose to bring happy things with me to leave at the cross- a rock from a place that brings me happiness & a stone cross provided by a neighbor for my Camino.It's hard to think of all the thoughts, wishes, grief & hope that has surfaced at this site.

While I was prepared for the incline up & power of the cross, I wasn't fully expecting the rocky downhill. The problem was that the flowers & views were so spectacular than you hated to keep your eyes down to carefully maneuver across the lava-like rocky trails. I was glad when we finally rolled into tiny El Acebo. Even better, El Acebo had a spa & even betterer (yep, my word) was the masseuse, Jose. I had one of my top 10 massages, or maybe it was just one of the top 10 times I really needed a massage.

27k to El Acebo (population 37)


Color abounds on this leg of the Camino




Ascending to the famous Cruz de Ferro where pilgrims add a stone signifying a burden or wish


Sunset by our friend, Nicole

What goes up, must come down. Tough downhill paths into El Acebo





Saturday, May 25, 2019

Camino: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

25/05/19
As we began our trek over Cantabrian mountains, we noticed a distinct Celtic influence & reference to the Maragato culture, centralized around Astorga & its nearby villages. Descended from Berbers, the Maragato men were traditional muleteers, transporting goods around the peninsula. Bierzo has become a recognized wine region. We also started to see pallozas, circular thatched stone buildings, and ever-present horreos, rectangular stone corncribs elevated off the ground to protect the crops from vermin.

We had a lovely morning surprise as we passed an unassuming local church on the outskirts of Astorga. We noticed pilgrim art & inscriptions. One of the parishioners brought us in to show off their vestibule. What a treat.

The tiny villages also pridefully paint & decorate their ornate wooden doors. And of course, each belfry has its resident stork nest.  

We were excited to finally make it to Rabanal del Camino as we'd heard so many wonderful things about the town and our aubergue. We happened into a choral rehearsal as the heavenly voices lilted through town & attended a Gregorian mass later in the evening. The Stone Boat, our cozy inn with three rooms, was a cocoon of comfort with historic touches. Our host, Kim, a former Key West resident did not disappoint with her scrumptious breakfast and special pilgrim sello. 
22k to Rabanal del Camino (population 50)

An unassuming church on the outskirts of Astorga was a pilgrim gem

A famous pilgrim mural on the church

Another steeple stork


The cowboy bar- a fun respite on the trail

A choral rehearsal lilting through Rabanal

Our cozy slice of heaven for the night.