Camino: Sabenche to Portomarin

03/06/19
It's odd to realize we are on final approach- as evidence by passing the 100k to go marker on the trail. So many new folks have folded into the Camino in Sarria. It is strange to see so many new fresh faces- many are Spanish locals & school groups & you can feel the increase in the many small towns & cafes. After weeks where birds are the loudest sound you hear, it is strange to hear louder voices. Still, the Camino remains beautiful.

Our destination, Portomarin, has an interesting story. The current city is a relocation of the historic city (buildings were moved uphill stone-by-stone) when a dam was built in the '50s. This flooded the former city & at low tide remnants of the former city & its Roman bridge can be seen underwater. Cruelly, pilgrims are faced with a long staircase just as they enter the town. While it provides stunning views, you can feel the muscle burn.

This pristine town is filled with flower boxes, small town squares, cafes & aubergues, all built around the Iglesia de San Nicolas (also moved from below.) Our adorable pension adjoins the church providing close-up views from our grassy courtyard. After laundry, we enjoyed hours here noshing on food from our packs as we caught up on journals & painting. Evening like this are special after a long day on the trail.

20k to Portomarin (population 2000)

Camino: Samos to Sabenche

02/06-19
We were truly sad to leave Casa de Diaz in Samos. How could it be topped?

Our plan was to hit Sarria well after the morning crowd had departed. As the starting point where most pilgrims begin their Camino, Sarria is strategically placed just outside the 100k mark required for pilgrims to earn their Compostela. We've been warned to be prepared for larger eager & noisy crowds on this portion of the way. Our Sunday morning in Sarria is rather quiet except for a 5k race we happen into. I REALLY thought long & hard about quickly registering & participating. I will do anything for race bling. Unfortunately, hiking sandals weren't a good footwear choice.

Betty's cellular plan proved useful today as we hunted through hill & dale to find our room at Casa Caxiguiero. GPS sent us out to an empty field before we broke down & Betty called the owner for offbeat instructions. Finally, we found the property & covered the half mile inside the estate gates to the main house. What a knockout.

Our room was in a private home dating from the 11th to 17th centuries. Our quirky room was exceptional & wreaked of antiquity- one wall of art was protected by plexiglass. My favorite was the huge wooden confessional in our room repurposed as a linen closet. It even had a kneeler. The owner, Theresa, treated us to a home-cooked meal in her garden.

20k through Sarria to Sabenche (population: those in our house)