Gem of the Adriatic

Imagine all that you love about Italy- the food, the olive oil, the wine, the countryside.  Now throw in azure waters and a younger hip vibe. That’s the Croatian coastline. 

The country boasts of 1000 islands and we are headed off on our chartered yacht, the Vito, to make our mark on just a few of these atolls.  Our gang gathered on the dock in Split for transfer to the Vito in Trogir.  After meeting the crew and enjoying a glass of champagne, we checked out our staterooms, pumped up the ipod, then headed into the small but sophisticated town for a meal of fresh seafood.

It’s a tough schedule aboard ship. It’s not for the faint of heart.  After a hearty breakfast, many decisions must be made- where will we anchor for swimming, what time will lunch start, and the big question for the day- white or red wine.  Croatian wines are excellent.  They are selfish and keep them for themselves so you won’t see it on your grocery shelves.  After lunch and several bottles of cold, fresh white wine, followed by an afternoon swim, the grind begins again as we head into port in the skiff for the evening’s feast.

Each town has its own flavor, whether natural beauty of Brac, Vis, and the Mjlet National Park or the hopping seaside bar scene in Hvar or Korcula, each night was special. Our personal favorite was Korcula due to its rich history, fortified city, and bevy of sea-side restaurants.

But the trip was capped off with the gem of the Adriatic- Dubrovnik.  Until the conflict with Serbia, this beautiful city had remained untouched through centuries of Roman, Ottoman and Venetian conquerors. You can see its battle scars- pock marks from bullets and newly-tiled roofs replacing those ruined by mortar, but these small imperfections don’t mar the beauty of this charming city- only serving to make her appear a bit more “worldly.” 

This walled city is best explored at the edges of the day- early morning walks on the city walls before the cruise ships descend on the town and late afternoon at Bar Buza.  You’ll have to hunt for a small opening in the city walls to find this tiny bar.  Tucked neatly into the cliffs overhanging the sea, most evenings started here as we watched kayaks and fishing boats make their way home for the evening and ended with a promenade down the Stradum with a gelato.  A special dinner on the cliffs above the city was a great way to end the day and a highly recommended spot is D’Vino wine bar (a girl needs to learn about the local brew, doesn’t she?)

While chartering a boat and crew is a special treat, Croatia has a great ferry system that will get quickly get you from island to island and you can round up a cozy apartment for a short stay before heading off to your next island adventure.  Now, you don’t have much of an excuse not to visit, do you? 

Now This is Retirement, Diocletian!

With over 3,600 miles of seafront and more than 1,000 islands, Croatia feels more like the Riviera than Eastern Europe.  Much of its ambiance comes from its history- I’ve lost count of how many countries and empires ruled- or attempted to rule- this small gem of a country. It’s northern Istria peninsula, tucked in just east of Venice and Slovenia, feels more like Italy.  As you head south along the Dalmatian coast, the influence of Germany and others is felt in architecture and cuisine. But wherever you go, Croatians are a friendly sort, eager to share their rich history while enjoying life along the Adriatic sea.

Our initial stop before boarding our yacht was Split with its impressive Roman ruins. The centerpiece of the old town is the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian (245 – 313).  His retirement home of sorts, the palace was both a fortified city and a luxurious villa. No grid system is at work in here- it is an amazing labyrinth of alleys and lanes now featuring boutiques and galleries side-by-side with Roman ruins.  The palace was eventually abandoned so the locals, fleeing Slavic invaders, moved in and the town sprouted up among the ruins.  When the Venetians took power in the 15^th century, they added new fortification and architectural flourish. 

Like much of Europe, the favorite local pastime is strolling the seaside pedestrian boulevard, the Riva (the Croatian equivalent of Barcelona’s Ramblas!) We stayed in a local Sobe, a small equivalent of our own B&Bs.)  We could literally open a window and reach out and touch the ruins of Jupiter’s Temple. A Croatian choral group practiced nightly for an upcoming festival- their voices bouncing among the ruins.

Next stop, meeting the Vito and its crew for our sailing adventure.