Camino: Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

14/05/19
After Leon, we spent the evening in the unassuming town of Hornillos (population 60.) It secreted a few gems- a touching pilgrim mass with an enthusiastic singing priest and a small healthy cafe run by an Irish girl.

Castrojeriz was a strange little town. It featured a high hilltop castle & one really long main street but no people. We walked a good 30 min. in town with nary a human. We also learned it was "impossible" to get a meal on a patio here. Their words, not mine.
22k via Hornillos (population 60) to Castrojeriz (population 500)

Camino: San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

12/05/19
Note to self: Do not get cavalier & miss the turnoff to the parklike side path that avoids miles of concrete jungle into town. 

Mark & I were chatting the entire hike today & enjoying the sites- sheepherders & their flocks, hilltop crosses & carefully navigating rocky terrain in strong winds when we realized we had missed a turnoff & were faced with a long trek through the industrial edges of Burgos. No backtracking on the Camino!

I was particularly excited to make it into this wonderful city as my pal, Laura, was joining me for the coming week. True to form, Laura was already at a cafe in the central square at the cathedral, sunglasses in place & vino tinto in hand, when we trudged into the town square. As more & more pals pulled in, we waylaid chairs to form a large group enjoying beverages. She fit right in with our grubby pilgrim selves.

We spent a rest day in Burgos, enjoying our fun & central apartment, the many restaurants & its enormous grand cathedral. We did learn that GoogleTranslate is also undependable when attempting laundry- as witnessed by my white shirt that is now a muddy grey. My husband, always the optimist, suggested I could pretend it was a new shirt!

Unfortunately we fought through a few health issues but were quickly on the mend and ready to hit the road as planned. We did however learn that no pilgrim stamps were provided at the local hospital.
28k to Burgos (population 180,000)

The Burgos cathedral is known for its size & splendor

Camino: Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

11/05/19
A fun day with little surprises along the way. 

Ran across fun pals from Denmark then we happened into an "oasis" in the middle of a forest. This funky rest stop featured neon totem poles, art & hammocks in addition to pilgrim fare. We took time to make a huge "La Vida" message for friends traveling behind us. They knew immediately it was for their benefit but several pilgrims showed me pictures of the message that they had taken throughout the day. Paying it forward!

In San Juan de Ortega, I finally met up with a friend-of-a-friend, Mark, who was also on this pilgrimage so we joined up for upcoming legs after enjoying dinner and pilgrim mass in the local monastery. This tiny village had two restaurants, an inn & an aubergue/monastery.
26k to SJdO (population 20- yes, 20!)

Our message to pilgrims to come

At the surprise oasis

My lovely pilgrim pals Dani & Connie

Before mass at the SJdO monastery

Camino: Navarette to Najara

08/05/19
Another short day through lush vineyards on my way to Najara. At a confusing fork in the road, I conferred with a new pilgrim friend. Once we landed in the middle of a field of grapevines, we retraced our steps & paid better attention to signage. As my Canadian friend & I solved all the world's problems, we enjoyed vineyard & the waterfront views from a cafe in Najara.

Najara's Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real is spectacular. The 11th-century church was built by King Garcia III whose falcon flew into a cave where he discovered a virgin statue that now lives in the original cave tucked inside the monastery.

I scored with a cozy room that even had a bathtub (woo hoo!)
18k to Najara (population 8500)

Today's fun trailmate, Sam

Eddie's birthday dinner in Najara

The monastery in Najara

The virgin from the cave

Camino: Estella to Los Arcos

05/05/19
The Irache pilgrim wine fountain came early this morning. It's a "must" to enjoy a shell full or two when leaving Estella. I'd hate to be impolite. After a quick stop, I peeled off to enjoy a quiet side path where I encountered only one other pilgrim until the afternoon. So serene. As I left the heavily wooded path, I came across Eduardo's Cafe Movil- a hopping little respite with a food truck and comfy grass patches. His eclectic playlist included Cher, the Rolling Stones & the Bee Gees.

Today I also learned how Spain really shuts down on Sundays. Not just the daily 2-5pm siesta, but basic tiendas (stores) & restaurants were closed up tight. In Los Arcos, even the famous cathedral was closed until evening services. It was spectacular & well worth the wait. I find it hard to understand how so many small towns maintain such grand cathedrals full of priceless artifacts. Los Arcos occupies an important location along the Rio Odron and is at the crossroads of two ancient trade routes. The name comes from a battle where the city was defended by archers using bows (arcos) & arrows.
23K to Los Arcos (population 1200)

Los Arcos Cathedral

Camino: SJPdP to Orisson

28-04-19

My Camino begins in the quaint village of St. Jean Pied de Port (population 1500), the traditional starting point of the 800k/ 500 mile Camino Frances. First stop, the efficient Pilgrim office. Kind volunteers will set you up with aubergue contact information, elevation maps & provide your new best friend, your credential! They even have a big scale if you want to see how good you were at whittling down the weight of your pack. We must look like school children on our first day of class- jittery, nervous smiles & tons of questions. 
My lovely aubergue, Beilari, included a get-to-know-you session at the communal dinner- a perfect opportunity to make new friends. There are those nervous moments at night when you check the weather for the umpteenth time & give your pack a final once-over to be sure you haven't overlooked anything. Then, a feeble attempt at sleep until we were awaken by soft choir music. After a Sunday Basque mass, our "Camino Family" began our hike. 

I elected to stop overnight in Orisson, about halfway up the Pyrenees to break up the arduous first day. A smart choice as weather was crisp & clear so views from the Orisson deck were spectacular & cried out for a celebratory beverage. Still an aubergue newbie, I met my new seven bunkmates for the evening. I had heard that bottom bunks are often offered to the older or injured pilgrims. I was glad to be assigned to the top bunk- ha! After a bit of work to get a too-tiny single-use sheet onto a mattress, I settled into my bunk with all the gear I may need overnight, headphones in place to cover snores from those lower bunks. Next day- do it all again, except we tackle the Pyrenees climb to Roncesvalles on Day 2.

8k to Orisson

My own special Camino shell

The welcome at Beilari, my first home on the Camino

Views from the Orisson deck