Please Pass the Word

 After our wonderful four month camper adventure, we've had a realization. We miss the mountains. Yes, we love our beach and ocean, but since we've lived on the eastern US our entire lives, the vast deserts and mountains have a certain allure.

We've decided to move west. Location TBD but we will probably rent for a while & try out a few places. This means we will be selling our beautiful waterfront condo. I'd appreciate if you could share this link on your social media or with friends who are interested in the Florida lifestyle- water, sun, outdoor activities, nature, no state income taxes and a low cost of living.

Please take a look and contact me with any questions or interest. This is truly a little slice of heaven right on the water.

Our Day Trip to Outer Space

What would you expect if you went to outer space?

I can only imagine it to be quite a bit like the Bisti/ De-Na-Zin Wilderness area in northwest New Mexico.

Bisti (bis-tie), translated from the Navajo language, means “large area of shale hills.” De-Na-Zin (Deh-nah-zin) takes its name from Navajo words for “crane.” The area was once a prehistoric swamp of an inland sea & was home to an early relative of T-Rex- the 30-ft Bisti Beast, discovered in 1997.

Bisti is a rolling landscape of over 45,000 acres of badlands & some of the most unusual scenery on earth. Time & nature have etched a fantasy world of strange rock formations, hoodoos, pinnacles, other unusual formations & lots of petrified wood.

There are no trails in Bisti. There is no cell coverage. There is heat.  And sand & rock. You can download map coordinates for well-known formations but you pretty much “head east” on your way out, look for landmarks & keep the sun on one side. To return to your car, keep a keen eye out for those same landmarks & keep the sun on your other side. We followed desert wash areas to find our way out three miles. If you choose to wander in the nearly hills, you can easily get lost as if in a maze. With so many dead ends, you can easily lose your sense of direction. There are warnings everywhere to bring lots of water as the sun can be blazing & you don’t want to wander in this arid area without it. If rain is predicted, it’s recommended to postpone your adventure as flash floods arise quickly & can be quite dangerous for both hiking & driving.

These badlands are striking in their complete silence.  Few hardy folks make the trek out to
Bisti- most New Mexicans I spoke with had never been & most had never even heard of it. You go for miles without seeing another human. The only sound you hear is your crunching footsteps, your own breathing & your gasps of “Oh my god, look at this one.” Colors range from pale sand to chocolate topped hoodoos. Some of the formations have curious names- Alien Factory, Hoodoo City, Cracked Eggs, Manta Ray & Bisti Wings. Just when you thought you’d seen it all, we’d happen upon a new set of crazy formations & find ourselves scratching our heads, trying to understand how nature had chosen to place

huge boulders on top of spindly spires or why small cities of rock toadstools had formed. The petrified wood perplexed us- one 20 ft. log lay on its side & went through the middle of a rockface.

It may not be space but Bisti surely was out of this world.

 

Going Down is Optional; Going Up is Mandatory

Let me take you on an adventure- a beautiful, challenging adventure into the Grand Canyon very few get to see.

Did you know less than 5% of the annual 6 million visitors to the canyon go below the rim? Of those 6 million tourists, less than 1% attempts a Rim2Rim hike. Three months ago I knew very little about this challenge. For the past two months I’ve lived & breathed it.

The Grand Canyon Rim2Rim hike typically begins on the canyon’s north rim and crosses through the canyon floor up to the southern rim of the canyon. The strenuous hike, typically taking 12-15 hours, most often begins before dawn at the North Kaibab trailhead at 8,241 feet with an elevation drop of 5,781 on the way to the canyon floor 14 miles in. Once you reach the Bright Angel trail on the south rim, you still have another 4,380 feet elevation gain before reaching the top at 6,860 feet, close to 25 miles later. The hike is typically done over several days with an overnight stop at the Phantom Ranch bunkhouse or one of the primitive campgrounds in the canyon floor. In these days of lotteries & permit requirements, I opted to do the entire hike in one day.

How does a flatlander (code for those of us who live at sea level) prep for this adventure? Luckily, we were camping out west so to train for hiking, I hiked. A lot. At high altitude. Carrying a hefty pack. I had no access to weights & gyms so I laced up my boots & hiked up & down every ski mountain I could find. I obsessed about nutrition (did you know pickle juice works wonders to avoid cramps?) & tested out salt tablets (critical to avoid hyponatremia) & electrolytes to keep me fueled. Since temperatures would range from the 40s to 100s throughout the day, preparing for both cold and blazing sun took a lot of thought. I read way too many websites that made me question my readiness & sanity of taking on the trek at over 60. Since I would make the trek alone, I found a group to handle logistics & provide a guide to sweep behind just in case of emergency. And I bought insurance as the only way out of the canyon in an emergency is via rescue helicopter- at a hefty price paid by the hiker.

As I nervously arrived at my room near the north rim, Jeff gave me a pep talk to assure me I was ready. I felt like Rudy before the big game! At that point I was most nervous about oversleeping my 3am wakeup call so I cut a deal with another hiker to call each other as backup. As we donned our cold weather gear & headlamps at 5am, we entered the canyon. The first 6 miles were the toughest for me- all downhill in the dark using poles to help with uncertain footing while fighting jitters. Once the sun began to rise, I could enjoy the view & settled into a groove, hoofing along at a steady pace, being sure to eat small snacks regularly & keeping up on fluids. My goal was to hit “the box” early.

 

“The box” is the nemesis for Rim2Rim hikers. It is the portion of the hike across the sweltering heat of the canyon floor from about miles 9-13. I’m talking temps that can reach 120 degrees in the sun. There are several campgrounds down here (one along the Colorado River) & a rustic stop, Phantom Ranch, where you can purchase snacks, refill water & get a refreshing lemonade. The Ranch also has the only Post Office delivering mail by burro- and you KNOW I love me some burros. After mailing cards, I went to the stream to get ready for the box by wetting all my clothes & towels to cool my temperature.

This turned out to be a poor move as 15 minutes later, the skies opened, pouring with whipping winds for hours. We hugged the sides of cliffs on the way up & gave up on trying to keep hats on our heads & our shoes dry. But, the rain was a blessing in disguise, keeping temperatures in the tolerable low 90s. The next hurdle is Indian Gardens where you mentally & physically face the steep ascent.

These last 5 miles are tough. One area, the Corkscrew, has 27 switchbacks. As your legs get more fatigued, incline & altitude increases. You begin to think someone is playing a cruel joke and these marked distances can NOT be correct. But you drag on- focusing on pulling yourself up one step at a time. Near the top you pass ill-prepared tourists heading down for a quick hike & think, “they have no idea what the hike back up will be like.” Darkness began to fall, cooling temps but the full moon came up, lighting our way for the final steps of the 14-hour trek.

If you ask me is it worth it?  Hell yeah. Would I do it again? Hell yeah. How few souls get to be among such beauty for an entire day? I was careful to heed advice I got to continually turn around throughout the day to enjoy the views I had just passed.  Did I ever think of quitting? Hell No… remember, starting the hike is optional. Finishing is mandatory!

 

 

Camper Life- 2 Months & no Murder or Mayhem

 It’s been two months since we’ve embarked on our camper adventure. What have we learned- both good & bad- along the way?

 The biggest decision- plan ahead or wing it? Either way, you WILL find a place to sleep. Without reservations, I had visions of us dragging the camper around only to be informed like Joseph & Mary that “there is no room at the inn.” If all else fails, you can find a hotel room or a parking lot for one night. Our favorite experience to date has been dry camping on BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land where we were miles from humans & with no light pollution enjoyed the Perseid meteor showers in all their glory.

 We’d heard so many stories of crowds hitting the road across the US that it seemed alarming to   head off without a plan. My issue is that I want a “stellar” experience- a great campground AND a great spot. This takes a bit of time & effort.

 - Learn the system. Some parks take reservations 11 months ahead. Others are four. You KNOW I was online exactly the second the system opened. As a result I had waterfront spots or huge spots with no neighbors nearby. Download apps, input credit card numbers & be ready to roll!

 - Consider what you want in a spot. Are views or privacy most important? If so, grab spots on the edge of campgrounds. If proximity to showers or laundry is important, pick a more central spot. Apps even have pictures of each spot & reviews from past campers.

 - Water is king. Access to & water pressure are critical. I still find myself worried about how much we have. Another point- shower rooms are not gross. Many times I’ve opted for a long luxurious “Hollywood” shower in the campground shower. These are not prison-style showers- you have your own private rooms with a door, benches, sinks & hooks with access to plugs & mirrors. At Kodachrome SP, we had rain shower heads AND handheld shower wands.

 - We’ve cooked & prepared meals much less than we expected. We are out & about all day so often we opt for a linner (Lunch/Dinner) at a recommended local restaurant. I’ve had our meal plans delivered periodically when we can get packages (Yes, the Amazon driver can still find you!) & have focused on those that are easiest to prepare. Our freezer is still packed with the tuna, sauces & soups I brought from home but we whittle away at our stores.

 - We’ve found that we don’t like to move often & enjoy a wide mix of full-service campgrounds mixed with rustic state or national park spots with more limited resources. Staying put for a while allows you to dig into an area & learn the best hikes & restaurants from locals.  We’ve also opted for shorter days on the road- not much more than four hours max on the road, & mix music, news, audiobooks & pleasant conversation to pass the time.

 - Assume all of America does not have blazing fast wifi or any cell coverage. We are careful to download driving & hiking maps when we have a signal (a shout out to All Trails!) & even have paper maps (gasp!) Sometimes we have TV, sometimes not. A BIG shoutout to the Baileys for a loaner portable DISH Tailgater system to satisfy Jeff’s need for SEC football.

 Like home, we haven’t been able to control weather & have had near misses with mudslides, fires & rainstorms. A rain day is a chance to rest knees & catch up on laundry (also easy on the road.) With Covid, we have much greater control over our environment than if we were moving from hotel to hotel & have all our favorite “stuff” without repacking. We’ve found it important to us that we keep the rig neat & tidy so we can find things & it makes it feel much bigger with things put away where they belong.

What’s been surprising? How many friends we’ve connected with along the way- both by accident & on purpose. We’ve had several surprise meetups with pals & have made new friends at campgrounds- how often does that happen in a VRBO or hotel? Campers LOVE touring each others rigs & sharing favorite travel finds. We've had to purchase dog treats for all the visiting puppies.

Another surprise? How busy you will be. I carried books, puzzles & art supplies but am still reading my first paper book) albeit I’ve completed many audiobooks while hiking. Why would I go inside until we’ve enjoyed sunset?

My final surprise is how handy Big Red, our new big ass truck, has been.  At all times she has our outdoor gear, wine, portable office, trusty basil plant & much, much more in her cabin. Don’t’ even get me started about all that we have in the truck bed.  We have, however, realized we don’t need a lot of things we brought. And we haven't killed each other... not even close.

Randomness & the Ass Matchmaker

This adventure started with a random NYT piece by renowned runner/author Christopher McDougal. McDougal had taken in an ill-treated donkey, Sherman, with the goal of training together to compete in the World Championship Pack Burro Race in Fairplay, CO.

This adventure continued with a further random incident. We happened to be nearby in CO & were able to attend Burro Days, a 2-day festival celebrating mining heritage & animals- all capped with the burro race. These intrepid runners aren’t RIDING the burros. They RUN WITH their burro partner. On a rope. Over mountains- high mountains. For either 29 miles or for the “short course”, 15 miles. This is no sissy sport. Of course, that means I HAD to do it.

More randomness. At the race I made a connection with the Ass Matchmaker, Amber. Amber & her husband, Brad, care for a band of “rental” racing burros. Two years later when we headed back to CO, I considered participating in the event but all the burros were spoken for. A week before the race, Amber reached out. A burro, Bandit, was now available.  Was I interested?  Hell Yeah.

Oh, & how does one quickly train for a burro race? I went to the local REI store searching for appropriate burro racing shoes. I watched burro racing YouTube videos- a bad idea that featured broken ribs, dragging & concussions. This gave me a full-blown panic attack. Jeff & drove to Denver for a training run. I learned the proper way to handle my rope, saddle the burros & work as a pack with other burros. With only days before the race, I had no chance to train the weak link in this high-elevation partnership- ME.

June 28, 2019. Day of race. We arrived early for race registration & saddle weigh in (we have to carry specific mining gear.) The race harkens back over 70 years when bored, drunk & slightly stir crazy miners competed in the inaugural race. I’ve been in lots of races, but never one that leaves piles of poop all over the starting line. Cue the starting gun & we’re off. A few miles out, Bandit needed to stop to take care of business. Once he finished & looked up, he realized all his burro buddies were long gone. At that point, he put on the brakes & lost all interest in racing. I tried pulling. I cajoled. I bribed with apples. No movement. Finally, I had to turn him around for the walk of shame back to the main street finish line to the cheers of the crowds thinking I was the speediest of runners. I’ve never DNF (Did Not Finish) a race so I had issues with how things went but had to get my head around the idea that it just wasn’t my day & I had to share power in this partnership. Still, we took Bandit back to his pen, combed him & fed him carrots. Two years later Bandit passed & all the Bandit stories came out. I was not alone in being a runner toyed with by Bandit.

July 25, 2021. We end up back in CO during Burro Days. Again, a few days out, Amber had a burro. This year, my goal was to use the race as training for an upcoming looong hike. 15

miles at high altitude across varied terrain would be great training. My partner in crime would be Blaster. This mini-burro was perfect for me. Small, so it wouldn’t hurt too bad if he stepped on me. I could even decorate him with festive flowers & a lei. Blaster is in his late 20s- I’m not sure what that means in human years but Blaster was slow & that was OK. He is also the beloved mascot of the Colorado School of Mines. He even has a web page that describes him as “an enduring symbol of determination & work ethic” for all students. The pressure! I confirmed with Amber that the race would not kill Blaster- I didn’t want that on my tombstone- The Lady That Killed Blaster

We had a strong start. Blaster’s little legs kept us in the middle of the pack, but with time lagged & ultimately were out on the course in the hills hunting for pink ribbons indicating the course & on the lookout for other racers. At six miles, a bit short of the turnaround, he just put the brakes on. I pulled, I cajoled, I bribed (sound familiar?) to no avail. Luckily, after time, some of his burro buddies made the turnaround & he was more than willing to join them on the run home. Where did this little guy get the energy to run home the final six miles, I’ll never know. He was such a pleasure to be with (along with the other racers that we ran home with) that I was ok that we “only” got to go 12 miles. It was HIS race, HIS day. I was just along for the adventure.  And hurray, I didn’t kill Blaster!

A Tale of Two Parks

 While we’d already visited two of Colorado’s National parks- Rocky Mountain & Great Sand Dunes, we were excited to see the two less-visited parks, Mesa Verde & Black Canyon of the Gunnison. These two parks couldn’t have been more different. Mesa Verde is an ode to mankind while Black Canyon harkens to a land that man forgot.

Mesa Verde, in the southwest corner of CO near Durango, was established as the first 
National Park to preserve the works of the ancestral Puebloans, or Anasazi, who lived in the area until the 1,300s & left behind archeological sites which make up the heart of the park. The park is full of winding roads with long vistas or arid mountains. Many of the best examples of pueblo living are kept at a distance due to crumbling overhangs or require ranger tours to ensure the sandstone cliff dwellings are kept safe from overeager tourists. We learned an important 2021 lesson- if you want to do anything involving rangers, book it the moment it goes on sale, or you’ll be eating dirt like we were.

I doubt you can find anyone outside CO that has been to Black Canyon of the Gunnison. I personally think it needs a rebranding campaign & a shorter name that rolls off the tongue. It’s a perfect one day car trip to really get out into unspoiled nature & get a real sense of the vastness of our country. Much of the highlights of the park can be toured in your car, interspersed with frequent short walks to take in some of the more stunning views. A vivid testament to erosion, the canyon is over 2,000 feet deep & at its narrowest spans only 1,000 feet at the top & 40 feet at the bottom. Since it is difficult for sunlight to filter down these narrow passages, much of the canyon is in perpetual darkness & shadow.

My favorite site is Painted Wall, Colorado’s highest cliff (twice as tall as the Empire State Building) with its colorful marbled appearance. Tucked at the bottom, the Gunnison River looks like a distant ribbon but the whitecaps give you a sense of the speed of the river.

Maybe we need a campaign to rename BCotG. Dark Shadows NP? Black Panther NP? Gunnison Cliffs NP? Ideas are welcome.

If you’ve been to both, which did you prefer & why?

Introducing Camper Life: Murder & Mayhem or Mischievous Fun?

Serendipity brought us to this point- a four-month cross-country adventure in a camper.

 On a neighborhood walk, Jeff introduced himself to a neighbor closing up his travel trailer following a trip. Before you know it, the couple was at our house for dinner- I scribbled furiously as they described how they had purchased & set off in their own camper. They quickly became camping mentors & dear friends & the seeds of our adventure were sown.

Scroll forward six months. We are the proud owners of a 21ft. Rockwood pull-behind trailer. Now remember, six months earlier we’d barely been in a camper let alone owned one. What have we gotten ourselves into?

The first big change was we had to purchase a big ass truck to pull the “rig” hence the name, “Big Red.” I drive a Mini so I find the truck intimidating. We had to add a running board so I could get up into it & I have to use a stool to get into the truck bed.

 I’m typically one to sign up for a race or challenge THEN do the necessary training. Becoming a “camper” was no different. Once we bought the “rig” (notice my new-found knowledge of camper vernacular) we got to work watching YouTube channels, printing out checklists & purchasing a myriad of hoses, filters, dog bones (a power converter) & RV-sized storage bins on frequent Dollar Store runs.

Living “Camper Life” is like a parallel universe for this urban girl.

·  I couldn’t tell you the difference between a Class A or C vehicle, a Fifth wheel or a Sprinter.

·  Did you know there are three kinds of water? Potable, gray & black? Don’t ask about the black but know you flush it out with the gray & definitely want gloves for this project.

·   We have LOTS of types of power to consider- 100v, 12v, 30amp & 50amp. Of course each requires specific plugs & runs specific things or more importantly, WON’T run specific things.

·   Towing & parking a camper is its own fine art. We have hitch balls, chains & sway bars. They even sell something called “ball lube” which I apparently need to purchase (using incognito on my search engine, no doubt.)

·   When you secure a camp site, you can use one of dozens of useful but very specific apps. Some spots have full hookup allowing you easy access to power & other utilities. Some apps are specific for state or national parks while some are for private spots. Others are for BLM (yes, I initially thought this was Black Lives Matter but this city girl now know it stands for Bureau of Land Management where you can pull over onto open lands & “boondock” or “dry camp” overnight.  This means you’ll have no power, water or sewage overnight so you’ll conserve & live off your rig for several days. After a few days you’ll need to use your apps to find the little “poop” emoji indicating where you can find a dump station (see earlier discussion of black water!) I feel like such a pioneer woman living off the land with her poop emojis  

We now have lots of items that are extremely light & fold up into small spaces. The truck bed is fully packed with generators, fire ring, propane, inflatable kayak, hammocks & chairs, a DISH system & bins of athletic gear & bikes on the back of the camper.  We have the InstaPot, Air Fryer, Ninja & of course, my coffee pot & favorite mug.  Jeff reminds me that we are traveling to America so we can purchase what we need along the way, but I am loathe to spend my vacation hunting down items at Walmart. We do indeed look a lot like the Clampett family descending on Beverly Hills.

Four month in a camper. Will we murder each other? Will I ever don gloves for dumping? Stay tuned…

Camino: Thoughts from this Adventure

How do you pull together your thoughts from an adventure like this Camino?

Do you focus on the history & spiritual side of the Camino? Dwell on the beautiful countryside? Or perhaps think back on the many lovely people who entered your life?  Maybe it's best to crystalize what personal learnings you can take away from the journey?

Or do you focus on the physical side of things- the way your muscles grew to crave movement & the simple fluidity of walking? How good it felt to taste fresh orange juice after walking for a few hours. Or the wonderful smell of fresh clean laundry or warm soft bread.

Uncategorically, I can say that this Camino was worth every hour of thought & preparation & I would do it again in a heartbeat. Why?

I enjoyed the challenge. I liked setting a goal & overcoming obstacles to achieve it. I liked self-sufficiency. I liked being faced with unpleasantness & choosing to ignore it & power through. I know, most people would find that strange. The Camino was good for me with its measurable progress toward a goal. And the sellos were colorful reminders of progress &  dandy reasons to take time to investigate churches & cafes along the route.

I liked not knowing what is around every corner. While I felt well-read on the Camino, I felt constantly surprised & intrigued. I liked getting ridiculously excited about simple things like a red poppy in a big field of yellow flowers or a hammock set up by a food truck in the woods. When I felt tired or was in pain, I liked finding the positive & humming a favorite song to put me in a splendid mood. I liked running into folks who brightened my day.

I liked fighting through the language & surviving on pantomimes to communicate (try explaining jousting in Spanish!).  I liked sitting quietly at dinner or on the trail & listening to the many languages & accents surrounding me. I liked that I had daily conversations on wide ranging topics with folks from wildly different backgrounds & no one got riled up or argumentative. It struck me how we can all be so different but all working toward the same common goal. Together.

I liked epiphanies I had on the trail.

One was about signs. I was alone while navigating into Pamplona, my first big city along the Camino. With the sudden glut of people, traffic, street signs & noise, I found it hard to focus & find the trail signs. After I missed a lovely riverside path I began to question my decisions. The signs & arrows hadn't changed but my ability to find them had been altered. There were small signs like metal shells in the walkway. Off in the distance from time to time, there were big ones. I felt discomfort when I didn't have a fellow pilgrim to confirm decisions. It hit me how this is a lot like decisions in life. We look for big signs right in front of us to hit us over the head so we are clear on exactly what we need to do. Often the little ones are right there in front of us- just when we need them. We don't need to necessarily depend on others but can trust that we will make the right decisions & often if they aren't correct, they are correctable & everything will still be OK. And by the way, I made it fine into Pamplona & had a splendid day on my own.

Another was about how I would spend my time. I came into this Camino thinking I would relish glorious time alone & would plop down under trees to sketch & paint almost daily. I learned that while I liked days alone to keep my own schedule that I actively sought out lively conversation with most everyone I met. And I found I like to keep people in my world

by reaching out when I hadn't seen them in a while, just to be sure they were doing well. I think of myself as a bit of an introvert so I especially enjoyed these one-on-one more meaningful interactions. As for that painting, it quickly morphed into making minute-long videos to capture and save the memories I made. There is still time to paint when I get home.

I also had no sense of how long it would take for daily hygienic tasks like getting packed, fed, laundered in addition to the obvious hours of walking & sleeping. I didn't recognize how impatient I could get with a simple thing like siesta. The idea of closing down an entire town for three hours during prime business hours was beyond my comprehension. After a few weeks, it felt normal & I just adjusted my tasks to fit around it. I admit, I still had problems with the late restaurant opening times on the Camino. That was my stomach ruling my head. 

I'm still noodling over how I want to keep my Camino alive in my day-to-day life back home. I realized how much I valued short calls home & how I looked forward ever so much to talking daily with my husband who constantly supported me in this adventure. I realized how much I enjoyed pulling back from media & now am attempting to enjoy music not TV. I am also going to have to kick a nasty cafe con leche habit & give up full bottles of Rioja on a daily basis. Baby steps.

Thanks to all those who provided insight, ideas, assurance, mental support & kept the wheels on back home while on this adventure. And thanks to my two adventurous friends, Laura & Betty, who met me during the Camino to share parts of the experience- their humor & friendship made the trip so much richer. And thanks to my husband, Jeff, who constantly nurtures my craving for adventure & while he wants no part of a hike this long, was nothing but supportive throughout this process. He will be glad to not hear about the "C" word for a while. At least until the next Camino...

Camino: Gratitudes on The Way

Back home, there are so many things I feel grateful for. My wonderful & loving husband; witty, caring & dependable friends; my health; the beautiful nature that surrounds me; an abundance of opportunity to grow & learn; a life rich with travel & experiences. The list goes on & on. I know & recognize- I am truly blessed.

On the Camino, when your daily activities & rituals are peeled back to basics, your priorities

often change. It's Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs. When you are just trying to meet your physiological and safety needs, you really aren't focusing on self-actualization.

I can't tell you how many little things brought a smile to my lips or an honest-to-goodness cheer. This list was the brainchild of Marie, a member of my "Camino Family." It's not extensive or complete & I'm always "grateful" for ideas & new items. Marie, sadly, had to cut her Camino short due to illness. I know she will be back to make this list more robust...

On this Camino I've been grateful for:

• Rooms near the stairs or on the first floor
• Olive oil for bread
• Laundry service or machines
• Shoes with lots of toe room
• Early breakfast
• My drugs of choice- cafe con leche & zumo de naranja naturale
• Local town markets
• Stores open during siesta
• Hot showers (& a hook or shelf for your stuff)
• Pilgrim masses
• happy "Buen Caminos" directed my way all day
• Plugs by your bed/bunk
• Decent & free weefee
• People who smiled as I butchered the Spanish language
• working ATMs that didn't eat my card
• Comfortable shoes
• Voltaren, Aquafor, Injingi toe socks & New Skin in my footcare arsenal
• good weather
• dark chocolate
• O'Cebreiro cheese & honey
• Hearing someone speak English (so I don't have to think for a bit)
• Tree tunnels on the trail
• Settling into your own pace, rhythm & footcare regimen (that works!)
• Cold pools & rivers from soaking feet
• Courtyards with real grass for yoga & stretching
• Vino tinto that you can somehow drink all night and NOT get a headache
• Red poppies
• Fun & unexpected food trucks/ surprises along the trail
• A sign for a cafe/bar on a long hot portion of the trail
• The crunching sound the stones make under your feet when you walk
• A bench to prep feet or adjust boots
• Aubergues & hostals that take pride in making pilgrim experiences special
• Hours of interesting conversation with a fellow pilgrim that makes time fly
• creative sellos with good ink
• Finding a ladies room with TP & being able to take over the Caballeros room with no line
• Big drying racks
• Hearing a half dozen languages at one dinner table
• Pharmacists that specialize in pilgrim ailments
• Locals that aleert you when you aren't on the correct path
• cyclists who use their bells
• Messages left along the trail by other pilgrims to make you smile
• Well-marked trails
• the wonderful variety of shells & different signage used on the Camino by various towns & regions
• Vast, fertile open countryside
• WhatsApp & good pilgrim apps
• Knowing somehow that a person you've only known for a short time will be a part of your life in the distant future
• KT/Leukotape that somehow sticks in place for days
• Being able to leave your pack sitting in a brightly colored row on the ground right outside a cafe
• Seeing so many heartfelt comments from home when you check in- all cheering for you & thanking you for taking them along on this adventure

Keep 'em coming...

Camino: Going to the End of the World, Finisterre

09/06/19
Today I realized just how little I have been in a moving vehicle over the past six weeks.

We've headed down to the coastal towns of Muxia & Finisterre, billed as the "end of the world." While we could have walked (it is its own Camino) we've opted for the 1-day bus tour. On the way we got the "Cliff Notes" of what the walk might be like- small pristine villages, coastal cliffs, a waterfall, fishing villages, historic churches, eucalyptus forests & beaches.

Muxia, a picturesque fishing village is known for its rocky point where the rustic Nosa Senora da Barca church sits. Legend has it that Mary appeared to St. James here. There is also the Pedra dos Namorados where couples come to declare their love.

I preferred Finisterre with its expanse of wild ocean and lonesome lighthouse on a bluff. The town is a lovely fishing village wrapped around a marina dotted with seafood restaurants. Here, we enjoyed our final pulpo & toasted our adventure. The lighthouse is a popular spot for pilgrims to cme at sunset & contemplate their journey, revel in satisfaction, give thanks for those they have met & welcome their next adventure. Sounds like a grand idea!

Camino: Breezing around Santiago de Compostela

08/06/19
It was strange to wake up with no alarm set & to know exactly where I would lay my head at the end of the day. It was also impossible not to walk.

So what to do? Take a walking tour, of course. This gave us the opportunity to learn the lay of the land, investigate Santiago's many Prazas (as they are called in Galicia), learn a bit of the rich architectural heritage of this fine city & see where all the fun cafes were. We also took advantage of a Cathedral Museum tour that gave us a glimpse into this historic building & even walk its outer balconies overlooking the square.

My favorite stop was, of course, the city's market. This sprawling permanent market not only houses hundreds of vendors for produce, cheese, meat, fish, wine & bread but also offers a dining hall where you can enjoy informal dining on the market's fresh items- one shop will even cook your newly-purchased fish for a few Euros. I was even able to find O'Cebreiro cheese & honey to bring back as a gift for Jeff.

It was also a pleasure to have dinner that didn't start before 6pm!  

Camino: O'Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

07/06/19
It's hard to process that this is the last day we will gear up for a long day of walking. It makes you appreciate each sight & step along the way. I asked Betty if we could go slowly so I could enjoy the final sounds, sights, sound of crunching boots & the murmurs of many languages along the final kilometers. We found lovely cafes for zumos & coffees. Sun peeked out but drizzle, and finally downpour, dominated the day. 

We spent some time at parque Monte del Gozo, famous for its first glimpses of the cathedral. It features several prominent pilgrim statues & oddly huge buildings of utilitarian rooms & pilgrim support services.  We are assuming they are readying themselves for the onslaught of pilgrims in the upcoming 2021 holy year. The site can house hundreds of pilgrims who would quickly overrun the existing available rooms nearby.

After a brief stop for lunch in San Lazaro (in honor of Betty's husband, Lazaro), we made our way into Santiago. After over a month of countryside, we had to be careful to obey traffic signs to avoid an accident in the final home stretch. While arrows abound, at this point you just follow pilgrims, like zombies trudging along en masse.

From a distance you start to see narrow roads lined with churches & historic buildings. Then you hear the bagpipes. Around a quick corner & voila, the Praza de Obradoiro, the golden square of Santiago is underfoot. You can't help but be drawn to its cathedral. While luckily, its outside scaffolding has been removed & external renovations completed, much of the internal work is currently underway so we won't get to experience the iconic swinging of the giant incense burner Botafumeiro during a pilgrim mass. This ritual requires a half dozen attendants to swing the giant burner & originally started as a way to fumigate the sweaty & possible disease-ridden pilgrims. I'll save that for a future Camino.

Weather cleared for us to take pictures & enjoy watching others reunited with other pilgrims from earlier in their journey or just standing in the square with tears in their eyes. You're torn on how long to stay as you are eager to go to the Pilgrim Office to get in line for your Compostela.

I don't know why I found the Compostela process so stressful. To be granted a Compostela, pilgrims must complete at least the last 100k of the Camino & get two sellos/ stamps each day to serve as proof.I triple checked my sellos & dates imagining the volunteer quizzing me about varying legs to be sure I had, indeed, met all the requirements.  It couldn't have been more pleasant. Once my number was called, I met with volunteer & church deacon, Angel, who provided congratulations, checked my credentials & completed the paperwork for my certificate. I even asked Angel if I could give him a hug? He opted for a hearty handshake since a hug would require me climbing over the counter.

Now, off to clean up & enjoy this fine city.

22k to Santiago de Compostela (population 96,000)