Sunday, July 15, 2012

Now This is Retirement, Diocletian!


With over 3,600 miles of seafront and more than 1,000 islands, Croatia feels more like the Riviera than Eastern Europe.  Much of its ambiance comes from its history- I’ve lost count of how many countries and empires ruled- or attempted to rule- this small gem of a country. It’s northern Istria peninsula, tucked in just east of Venice and Slovenia, feels more like Italy.  As you head south along the Dalmatian coast, the influence of Germany and others is felt in architecture and cuisine. But wherever you go, Croatians are a friendly sort, eager to share their rich history while enjoying life along the Adriatic sea.


Our initial stop before boarding our yacht was Split with its impressive Roman ruins. The centerpiece of the old town is the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian (245 – 313).  His retirement home of sorts, the palace was both a fortified city and a luxurious villa. No grid system is at work in here- it is an amazing labyrinth of alleys and lanes now featuring boutiques and galleries side-by-side with Roman ruins.  The palace was eventually abandoned so the locals, fleeing Slavic invaders, moved in and the town sprouted up among the ruins.  When the Venetians took power in the 15th century, they added new fortification and architectural flourish. 


Like much of Europe, the favorite local pastime is strolling the seaside pedestrian boulevard, the Riva (the Croatian equivalent of Barcelona’s Ramblas!) We stayed in a local Sobe, a small equivalent of our own B&Bs.)  We could literally open a window and reach out and touch the ruins of Jupiter’s Temple. A Croatian choral group practiced nightly for an upcoming festival- their voices bouncing among the ruins.

Next stop, meeting the Vito and its crew for our sailing adventure.