Hail? REALLY?

We packed up early for our adventure to Lake Hope.  Two-way radios- check. High energy snack foods- check.  Rain gear and hiking poles- check.  Now, if we could just find Lake Hope.  Armed with three (yes, three) hiking trail references, we went off in search of what was billed as a hike to lovely Lake Hope, a high-altitude alpine lake nestled in the mountains south of Telluride.  Unfortunately, every guide provided different directions to finding the elusive trailhead.  We circled lakes, ended at posted “Private Property” signs, and finally mounted a drive up a rocky dirt trail up a mountainside (reminiscent of Costa Rica) to start our hike.  Surely, we’d need all our gear as we’d never encounter homo sapiens during the day- only wildlife and wildflowers were on our agenda.

 
After miles up the trail- Eureka- we arrived, only to find a dozen other cars already parked- their drivers already enjoying our private hike. We’ve determined Telluride is not the place to attempt an illicit affair. We keep running into the same local hikers (and their big dogs, of course!) on different trails each day. So much for quiet moments!

 

But the trip was well worth it.  Long stretches of switchbacks through the forest trail dotted with magenta and yellow wildflowers helped ease the pain of the 2000 foot ascent.  When we finally arrived at the lake, it was well worth the effort.  At close to 12,000 feet, ice flows still floated on the lake surface and snow crept across the mountainsides ringing the lake.  We began to enjoy our snacks when a hailstorm began.  Actually, hail is better than rain since it quickly bounces off your head!  Unfortunately, hail brought its cousins thunder and rain to the party so we hurried down- drenched but happy from the adventure.  Why is the drive down the mountain always so much easier? 

But It's a Dry Heat!

Who decides to leave a 72 degree mountain retreat and head off to hike in the Moab desert in 100 plus degree temperatures?  Apparently, we do! When we found out that the famous Arches and Canyonlands National Parks were only two hours away (western geography was never a strength of mine!) we figured we had best go visit- we may never pass this way again.

After a two hour journey across breathtaking mountain ranges on winding switchback roads, we arrived in Moab, a small Utah town nestled smack-dab in the middle of a handful of national and state parks.

We were not fully prepared for the beauty of the landscape in the area.  Within a few miles of each other, Arches and Canyonlands Parks offer visitors quite different topography.  Arches NP, attracts over a million visitors each year- all eager to view its iconic images like Balanced Rock or Delicate Arch.  Rangers constantly warn visitors to avoid hiking during the hot part of the day and drink copious amounts of water.  On the day we toured, the car touted a temperature of 122 when we returned from our hike.  After running the AC, it quickly dropped down to a balmy 99!

Just down the road at Canyonlands NP, we attended a ranger talk on the geology of the park (fascinating!)  It makes you realize we are miniscule in the scheme of things when you see what thousands of years of wind, rain & gravity can do to form these stunning canyons, waterways and rock formations.

My big question is, if aptly-named Arches NP has amazing arches & rock formations, and Canyonlands NP has canyons deeply cut by the Colorado River, what is going on at nearby Dead Horse Trail State Park?   

Stop the Car- NOW!

It takes a lot to create a traffic jam in Telluride.  With only a few thousand residents and only one main road into “downtown”, granted, things could get busy from time to time.  But yesterday, as we headed home after a long day of hiking (did I mention Telluride sits in a canyon at 8700 feet ABOVE sea level so hikes are around 10,000 feet?) cars were at a standstill and pulled over at every available roadside spot.  An overturned tractor-trailer?  An early visitor to this weekend’s Nothing Festival (where revelers wear “nothing”?  No, it was a herd of elk, calmly grazing roadside.  Over 100 of these muscular creatures were lounging in a field, enjoying the endless salad bar of field flowers.  What struck me was that there was only one male in the mass of females and babies.  What must his job be like?  Protector, gatherer, husband, father, provider, chief bottle washer.  Does he EVER sleep?  It’s like REALLY Big Love. 
Today they were back but moving west to new land.  I guess he is travel guide as well .

My Million Dollar Telluride Idea

Telluride is a magical place- the kind of place that offers you its beauty and charm both in winter and summer seasons. While we’ve skied here several times, this was our first foray into summer at Telluride and hopefully, won’t be our last.

Because it is a more newly-developed, everything is aesthetically pleasing and well planned.  That’s not to say that the town isn’t rich in history. Snuggled into a box canyon in the San Juan Mountains, Telluride, once known as the City of Gold, is now a National historic District.  Spanish explorers came in the late 1700s, followed by fur traders and the Ute Indians, and later persevering miners in search of riches. 

Today the town is still sprinkled with historic buildings and charming renovated miner homes. Nestled alongside these quaint structures and dotting the hillside are opulent stone and wood homes for the town’s wealthy residents (Tom Cruise lives in our “hood”.  No Suri sightings yet!)  Top-notch hiking trails and bike paths snake along the downtown creek and up the side of adjacent Bear Creek Mountain.  The hot yoga studio doesn’t publish fees, but asks you to pay what you can (although they suggest you “can” afford to pay between $12 and $20 a session) and the local medical marijuana stores appear to be doing a healthy business. Somehow, it all just “works” to make Telluride a highly “livable” location with a young, laid-back, healthy vibe.

But who rules this quaint town with its main street dotted with flower boxes and local hardware store coexisting side-by-side with  trendy shops and organic restaurants? 

It’s the DOGS! 

I’ve come to realize that there are probably more dogs than humans in this town.  And they appear to be revered by its residents! Telluride would put Paris and New York to shame.  On our first day of hiking, on the trail we noticed that almost everyone we encountered had their dog with them.  Since then, we see them everywhere- on the gondola, reigning over stores, and my favorite, quietly sitting on a bar stool with his human at a trendy mountainside bar last night- watching the sports channel.

Now for my plan- Telluride Rent-a-Dog!  For those visitors or those new-to-the-area who want to immediately fit in and have an instant friend an status symbol (without the worry of crating and airplane travel.)  And these can’t be normal sized dogs.  The bigger, the furrier, the slobberier the better.  Lolling tongues and panting are a plus.  Labs and Goldens will be our specialty . And they will have “immediately friendly” names to match- Rusty, Bo, Buddy, Mac and as a nod to my Southern heritage, Dixie.  These new friends will serve as hiking partners, provide entry into any and all local establishments and be great for picking up members of the opposite sex.  And they will even come with a tennis ball for play! 

Investors, anyone?

 

Gotta Up Our Cool Factor!

Do you ever go someplace and finally realize, “I’m no longer cool!” 

Jeff & I have arrived at our final destination, Oxygen Jungle Villas, up in the hills outside the Pacific coast town of Uvita.  After following a series of secret instructions (you only get them after making reservations) we arrived at our villa and were greeted by staff in black tees. They led us to a table with a small pellet in a bowl for each of us.  Our greeter, Dallas (go figure?) informed us this was for freshening up and poured spring water over the pellet which quickly grew to unwrap and become a damp washcloth.  Jeff noted that it was interesting to be greeted with a science project after a dusty drive.  We were then led to our Balinese hut. 

Each unit is guarded by a Buddha (Namaste, Mr. Buddha!)  The hut consists of three walls of glass with all white furnishings inside and on our outside porch daybed.  At least the bathroom and rain shower have opaque glass and we draw curtains for a bit of night time privacy.  The infinity pool is pretty amazing, with lanterns, buddhas, and piped in zen music- all overlooking the cliffs and the Pacific.  I dare you to have high blood pressure here. And you feel like you should talk in low tones. Of course, on the river trail, you pass the yoga hut in the woods before you arrive at the resting platform by the waterfalls.  I feel like a little kid thinking, “Cool!”  Dinner was also interesting.  With only 12 rooms, they can’t offer a full menu so it is “Chef’s Choice” of several tasty courses, all at the discretion of the kitchen.  It was actually really nice to not have to decide what you wanted but to let it unfold and just enjoy. 

One night we ventured off property.  Not an activity for the faint hearted.  This involves a 4-wheel drive, a GPS and mental fortitude.  We left well before dark for dinner at the highly-recommended restaurant, Exotica (I was concerned we were being sent to a Gentlemen's Club instead of a restaurant!) but after going 15k to a bumpy dirt road, we arrived at a tiny (think nine tables) thatched roof building.  We were greeted by the owner, Lucy, a gregarious French-Canadian, who proceeded to serve us the most delightful and sophisticated caribbean-asian fare.  I even broke down to have her homemade chocolate tart with a chili finish.  It amazed us how such a wonderful place can exist and thrive on a hidden road in the middle of nowhere.  Luckily, we made it back up the mountain in the dark and tucked away in our hut for the night.

I think for today, we will imitate my friend the sloth and enjoy our view from the day bed.  Namaste!

Costa Rica: Pura Vida

While Costa Rica may lack in size, it doesn’t lack in natural abundance. This tiny Central American country, about the size of West Virginia, accounts for 0.03% of the earth’s surface but is home to nearly 5% of the planet’s plant and animal species. With over 9,000 plant species, 2000 butterfly species and 876 bird species, it’s hard to avoid natural wonders. The country boasts of 12 microclimates resulting from the combination of mountains, valleys, and coastline. We’ve only filled up our gas tank twice yet have been to two steaming volcanoes, a misty cloud forest, numerous national parks teaming with wildlife, and beaches ringed by rainforests.

The Ticos, as the Costa Ricans call themselves, have an interesting heritage. When the Spanish landed here, unlike other Latin American areas, they didn’t find a large indigenous population with an established empire like the Aztecs or Mayans. The “Rich Coast” set off early in a peaceful direction and has headed that way ever since. While political upheaval and civil war have affected its nearby neighbors, Costa Rica is a stable democratic republic (with a female president) that is famous for lacking an army. Its agricultural exports- coffee, bananas and pineapple are spectacular, as is its major cash crop, eco-tourism. It now walks a fine line- encouraging tourism but controlling its impact on its valuable natural resources. We’ve also found it interesting to have internet everywhere we’ve stayed… you can’t get that in Europe!

What’s been amazing to us has been that our most fascinating animal encounters have not been in parks or reserves but as we casually went about our days. While enjoying coffee on our terrace at Manuel Antonio, a capuchin monkey jumped down off the roof to join us. I’m not sure who had a more terrified look- the monkey or Jeff! Our hotel restaurant had two sloths in the trees that we watched for hours before grabbing drinks. Iguanas would come beg snacks as you sat at the pool. Little need for park tours- most properties have their own trails with amazing viewing opportunities. Nature can be deafening as you awake to the calls of howler monkeys and tropical birds as they start their days. At night, you’re sure every sound from the jungle is a huge tourist-preying mantis.

One of our favorite experiences was a lovely morning horseback ride to Nauyaca Falls near the coast. After a typical Tico breakfast, our feisty horses led us up a rocky trail to a pristine waterfall where the guide strung ropes so that brave participants could climb the falls and jump into the pool below. Eager to get home for food, the horses galloped and trotted most of the way home- riders holding on for dear life. So many times we thought, “The lawyers in the US would have a field day with this!” Needless to say, all arrived safe & sound.

With only two days left, we head off to Uvita, a small coastal town down south. Hasta la vista.