Gotta Up Our Cool Factor!

Do you ever go someplace and finally realize, “I’m no longer cool!” 

Jeff & I have arrived at our final destination, Oxygen Jungle Villas, up in the hills outside the Pacific coast town of Uvita.  After following a series of secret instructions (you only get them after making reservations) we arrived at our villa and were greeted by staff in black tees. They led us to a table with a small pellet in a bowl for each of us.  Our greeter, Dallas (go figure?) informed us this was for freshening up and poured spring water over the pellet which quickly grew to unwrap and become a damp washcloth.  Jeff noted that it was interesting to be greeted with a science project after a dusty drive.  We were then led to our Balinese hut. 

Each unit is guarded by a Buddha (Namaste, Mr. Buddha!)  The hut consists of three walls of glass with all white furnishings inside and on our outside porch daybed.  At least the bathroom and rain shower have opaque glass and we draw curtains for a bit of night time privacy.  The infinity pool is pretty amazing, with lanterns, buddhas, and piped in zen music- all overlooking the cliffs and the Pacific.  I dare you to have high blood pressure here. And you feel like you should talk in low tones. Of course, on the river trail, you pass the yoga hut in the woods before you arrive at the resting platform by the waterfalls.  I feel like a little kid thinking, “Cool!”  Dinner was also interesting.  With only 12 rooms, they can’t offer a full menu so it is “Chef’s Choice” of several tasty courses, all at the discretion of the kitchen.  It was actually really nice to not have to decide what you wanted but to let it unfold and just enjoy. 

One night we ventured off property.  Not an activity for the faint hearted.  This involves a 4-wheel drive, a GPS and mental fortitude.  We left well before dark for dinner at the highly-recommended restaurant, Exotica (I was concerned we were being sent to a Gentlemen's Club instead of a restaurant!) but after going 15k to a bumpy dirt road, we arrived at a tiny (think nine tables) thatched roof building.  We were greeted by the owner, Lucy, a gregarious French-Canadian, who proceeded to serve us the most delightful and sophisticated caribbean-asian fare.  I even broke down to have her homemade chocolate tart with a chili finish.  It amazed us how such a wonderful place can exist and thrive on a hidden road in the middle of nowhere.  Luckily, we made it back up the mountain in the dark and tucked away in our hut for the night.

I think for today, we will imitate my friend the sloth and enjoy our view from the day bed.  Namaste!

Costa Rica: Pura Vida

While Costa Rica may lack in size, it doesn’t lack in natural abundance. This tiny Central American country, about the size of West Virginia, accounts for 0.03% of the earth’s surface but is home to nearly 5% of the planet’s plant and animal species. With over 9,000 plant species, 2000 butterfly species and 876 bird species, it’s hard to avoid natural wonders. The country boasts of 12 microclimates resulting from the combination of mountains, valleys, and coastline. We’ve only filled up our gas tank twice yet have been to two steaming volcanoes, a misty cloud forest, numerous national parks teaming with wildlife, and beaches ringed by rainforests.

The Ticos, as the Costa Ricans call themselves, have an interesting heritage. When the Spanish landed here, unlike other Latin American areas, they didn’t find a large indigenous population with an established empire like the Aztecs or Mayans. The “Rich Coast” set off early in a peaceful direction and has headed that way ever since. While political upheaval and civil war have affected its nearby neighbors, Costa Rica is a stable democratic republic (with a female president) that is famous for lacking an army. Its agricultural exports- coffee, bananas and pineapple are spectacular, as is its major cash crop, eco-tourism. It now walks a fine line- encouraging tourism but controlling its impact on its valuable natural resources. We’ve also found it interesting to have internet everywhere we’ve stayed… you can’t get that in Europe!

What’s been amazing to us has been that our most fascinating animal encounters have not been in parks or reserves but as we casually went about our days. While enjoying coffee on our terrace at Manuel Antonio, a capuchin monkey jumped down off the roof to join us. I’m not sure who had a more terrified look- the monkey or Jeff! Our hotel restaurant had two sloths in the trees that we watched for hours before grabbing drinks. Iguanas would come beg snacks as you sat at the pool. Little need for park tours- most properties have their own trails with amazing viewing opportunities. Nature can be deafening as you awake to the calls of howler monkeys and tropical birds as they start their days. At night, you’re sure every sound from the jungle is a huge tourist-preying mantis.

One of our favorite experiences was a lovely morning horseback ride to Nauyaca Falls near the coast. After a typical Tico breakfast, our feisty horses led us up a rocky trail to a pristine waterfall where the guide strung ropes so that brave participants could climb the falls and jump into the pool below. Eager to get home for food, the horses galloped and trotted most of the way home- riders holding on for dear life. So many times we thought, “The lawyers in the US would have a field day with this!” Needless to say, all arrived safe & sound.

With only two days left, we head off to Uvita, a small coastal town down south. Hasta la vista.