I can’t say enough good about this lovely country and its
people, but like its ubiquitous mint
tea, Morocco is an acquired taste and one
you must share a while with a local to fully enjoy its full flavor.
Even before landing, we were struck by the verdant beauty of
the country- not what we had imagined from years of Sahara desert films. The
country produces tasty figs, olives, fruit and dates- all creatively and
precariously displayed in local medinas.
Each city maintains its own unique qualities and
sensibilities. But regardless of where you travel, you’ll see new highways and
construction alongside historic mosques, ruins and fortresses.
Rabat, Morocco’s political capital, is a city going on about
its business. While quite walkable with history readily on display, tourism
takes a back seat to running the country and educating its people.
Fes is an antidote to your daily life. In its sprawling Fes
El Bali medina, the world’s largest car-free urban area, it’s virtually
impossible to keep a sense of direction or time. In fact, it best to allow
yourself to be transported by the scents and bedlam of the medina. Put away
your map and arm yourself with a camera and small currency and prepare yourself
for an assault to your senses. Moroccans
have never heard of the grid system. With miles of chaotic stalls laden with
produce, leather and linens, there’s nary a name for a lane or anything
resembling a straight path. Yells of, “Belak, Belak” warn you to quickly step
to the side of your path to avoid an unfortunate crash with a burro delivering
goods. Carpet stores greet you with tea and small talk before the world’s best
salesmen share their fine rugs with a muffled “thump” as each carpet is rolled
out and you are urged to feel the quality of each piece. Somehow they can pack
a full-size carpet into a bag no bigger than my toiletry bag. Follow your nose
to the Chouara Tannery where workers use traditional techniques to dye hides,
constantly stirring to ensure they evenly accept the vats of color. Here we
stayed in Riad Salaam Fes, a “repurposed” palace now serving as a sumptuous
boutique hotel and restaurant.
My favorite city, Marrakesh, is part P.T. Barnum and part oppulent
riad hotel. Outside the medina, car traffic seamlessly melds with horses,
scooters and taxis. Camels are parked and waiting outside the local mall. Inside
the labyrinth of the medina be prepared for anything. Small souks and food
stalls are nuzzled between snake charmers, henna painters and my favorite, the
local dentist, proudly displaying the hundreds of sets of dentures, all waiting
for your chomping pleasure. Marrakesh,
the city of Ochre, is ready and waiting for its sophisticated visitors. Behind
even the most unassuming door often stands a lavish riad with a citrus-laden
garden and top-rated rooftop restaurant.
I’d never even heard of the seaside hamlet of Essaouira but
after a day wandering the fishing village, you can see why Moroccans gather
here for holiday to enjoy the relaxed attitude, salty breezes and fresh
seafood.
But the star of Morocco is the Sahara. It’s been the stuff
of dreams since Casablanca and Indiana Jones films. It’s now a popular film
production location due to low cost and ready production sets. As we neared the
desert, we encountered goats perilously perched high in trees to enjoy hard-to-reach
tasty Argan nuts high up in the trees. A highlight of our adventure was an
overnight stay in a Berber tented camp. After a sunset camel ride, it was
special to take in the stars without city light polution. Hot water bottles and
heavy carpets awaited you in bed to keep you cozy on the chilly night.
Although we travel often, I was surprised how little English
was spoken. This goes back to the fact that Morocco was once a protectorate of
France and that currently, Muslims and the nomadic Berbers live side-by-side.
Signage typically includes Arabic, Berber and French. I was also admittedly
surprised by the open kindness and humor of the Moroccans. Even in the busiest medina where I was often
lost and cried out “tourist” with my blond hair and pastel clothes, vendors
used my map to point me in the correct direction. Even in a busy urban
Casablanca neighborhood, when I asked where I might find a particular item, a
shopkeeper had one of her staff walk me to a nearby store in hopes of finding
the item.
To quote a famous person (OK, Jeff Blakely), if Morocco is
on your bucket list, don’t wait. If it’s not, consider adding it. And go now!
Our adventure was featured in a marketing video of Morocco.
If you are considering a trip, it is well worth a few moments of your time and
prominently features my co-star, Jeff. Take a peek.