Rodents as Big as Scooby

After the 35 miles of trekking to Machu Picchu, the Peruvian Amazon seems a bit calm. Here, the excitement comes in enjoying the journey, not in reaching the destination. Canopy and rainforest walks are slow and cautious to allow for better viewing of the animals. In this Madre de Dios region, I’m staying in the Manu Reserve in Reserva Amazonica, a property with 34 individual eco-huts complete with bathrooms, mosquito netted beds and two lovely hammocks crying out to me on my screened porch. Lanterns dot the walkways and your porch at night, adding a pleasant glow to your walk home from dinner. After a plane, truck & boat to get here, a little luxury is greatly appreciated.

The region boasts of 20,000 plant, 1,200 butterfly, 1,000 bird, 200 mammal and 100 reptile species identified so far. Largely ignored during the Spanish conquest, the region grew in the 19th century with the discovery of shiringa- the rubber tree. Still, very few people live outside the entry city of Puerto Maldonado.

Yesterday on our afternoon forest hike, we ran across a large troop of squirrel monkeys. It was like a scene from the movie, “Predator.” The forest felt alive, branches moved above our heads and you could hear movement all around you but barely get glimpses of the feisty little creatures. Another find was the poisonous chicken spider. Our guide showed us the holes they use as homes and proceeded to prod a baby spider (a furry 4 inches long) out of his hole. I’m glad his mother decided to stay put as they grow to the size of your hand. In the spider department, we also saw tarantula nests growing in trees.

Today we spent the morning walking the numerous canopies and towers built above the forest. These provide exceptional bird viewing and offer a unique perspective on the trees and plants.

For some reason, I think my favorite animal so far are the brown Aguti that live on the fringes of the forest. These huge rodents which grow up to 14 lbs. are quite comfortable with humans as the property provides a nutcracker along the path so you can toss food to these critters. As they forage at night, they make quite a ruckus lending your imagination to thinking there must be a band of jaguars hunting outside your hut walls- ready to make you into their next meal. I think I like them most as they remind me of Scooby, always on the lookout for a treat.

Tomorrow I begin my journey home- a 2-day combination of canoe, plane and jeep. My ipod, eye covers & ambien are ready for the overnight voyage home.

What Once Was Lost, Now is Found

Finally, after six drays of trekking, we arrived at Machu Picchu!

Talk about a happy accident. Yale historian Hiram Bingham, the man credited with re-discovering Machu Picchu, the Lost City of the Inca, was actually on the hunt for another city when he happened into this magical site. Bingham and his team of explorers arrived in Cusco in 1911 with hopes of finding Vilcabamba, the LAST city of the Incas. Since the local Quechan language is spoken and not written, little survived from the Incan times to tell of Machu Picchu (meaning Old Mountain in Quechan.) Local maps to Vilcabamba showed another settlement and as Bingham headed off to Vicabamba, he uncovered Machu Picchu which lay directly in its path through the Sacred Valley. Actually, locals continued to farm the flat, sunny terraced areas of the city and the Incan Trail had served as a local supply route since ancient times. The site had gone undiscovered by Spanish conquerers and later explorers due to its heavily overgrown vegetation. Even from nearby Agua Calientes, you can look directly up to the site and not see it. Bingham later returned to the site in 1915 with a band of scientists to uncover remains and begin research.

The real boom to the city came in 2007 when the site was named one of “The Seven Wonders of the World.” This led to efforts by UNESCO and the Peruvian government to carefully restore and preserve the site. Daily crowd limits to both the site and the Inca Trail serve as a means to keep the site intact.

Built in the mid-15th century, Machu Picchu was a sanctuary for Incan royalty. The landscape is stunning with orchids and the massive cliff face of Huayna Picchu towering overhead. The city is divided into three sections- the Sacred District, the Popular District and the District of the Priests and Nobility. The architecture and location indicate the site is a sacred place. Numerous nearby archeological sites such as the one we visited the day before all face Machu Picchu. As with other sacred buildings, the finest craftsmen build the site’s temples using perfectly fitted stones and no mortar. Agricultural and less important structures use rougher stones and mortar. Incan architectural elements such as trapezoid windows, inward slanted walls and terraced planting areas reinforce the stability of Incan building and city planning techniques.

Theories abound as to why the city was abandoned. Some speculate it served as the estate of a local ruler and was deserted upon his death. Others theorize that disease brought by Spanish conquerors ultimately led to the city’s demise.

When he left in 1915, Bingham took 174 boxes of human remains and artifacts to the U.S. for further study. Most reside today in the Peabody Museum in CT and the Peruvian government continues to negotiate the return of these artifacts.

What a fitting end to our journey. After an overnight stay in Cusco, I’m headed off to the Peruvian Amazon.

Coffee, Cuy & Uphill Battles

Ah, more long hikes these next two days. While we won’t be crossing peaks at 15,000 ft anymore, these are “sucking wind / what was I thinking / did I EVEN work out” altitudes that leave you panting on the uphills. Our fifth day, luckily, consisted of 10 miles of mostly downhill. Sounds easy, but you need walking poles to take the pounding off your knees. The hike snaked along the rocky Salkantay river- one of the many that feed the Amazon. During this trek, we’ll pass through nine bio-spheres. You can really see the difference as we descend. Wildflowers, coffee plants and birdlife abound along the trail. We enjoyed the gurgling sounds of the river for most of the 8-hour adventure.

Our final long day of hiking was a special one- but tough. Our day started with a visit to a local home of a coffee grower. We huddled in the small shack as we watched how they sifted the coffee shells from the beans and toasted them over a live fire. What an amazing scent! Since the Peruvians love their guinea pig, a dozen roamed around the hut sniffing at our hiking poles- not quite sure what they thought of these new visitors. Next, we were off for our 3-hour hike uphill (we climbed from 6,600 ft. to 8,900 ft. before descending. At the top, we were treated to distant views of Machu Picchu in the misty clouds.

After a lovely mountaintop lunch, we visited the recently-restored Llactapa Ruins. While this area is not sacred (you can tell by building techniques) it was important as a stop over on an Inca Trail and looks directly toward Machu Picchu. Four hours of downhill hiking followed and led us to the local PeruRail stop where we boarded a small train to Agua Calientes. To make it up and down the steep mountains, the train uses a series of switchbacks, moving forward and back like a pendulum to make it to the top. What an adventure. After a great dinner in town, we all set out alarms for an early wakeup and dreamt of our next day when we would visit the Lost City of the Incas.

Don't Let Your Babies Grow Up to Be Peruvian Cowboys

Last night before dinner, we had the chance to sit down with our horse wranglers for a chance to learn more about their lives and practice our fledgling Spanish. After muddled introductions, we learned more about the lives of these hardworking Peruvian men. They are caked with grime from a long day on the trail moving gear and supplies from lodge to lodge & the years of hard work were etched in their deeply tanned faces. Most are primarily potato farmers and supplement their meager income by wrangling horses along the tourist trails. They operate on a simple principle that we can all live by- that of “ayni- today is for you; tomorrow is for me.” When the leader of a wrangling crew picks his crew members, it is with the understanding that when they serve as the next wrangler, there is a place for them on that crew. It is just one of the ways Peruvians take care of their neighbors & friends.

Today was described as much easier & thankfully, it lived up to its billing. We slept in until 7:00am (hurray!) for our 4-hour hike along the lovely Salkantay River. Butterflies were everywhere (apparently they are big fans of horse dung!) and as we passed through this cloud forest, greenery replaced bare rock and flowers showed their colorful blooms. Our lodge for tonight sits at 10,300 ft.- our first evening to sleep at under 11,000 ft.

When we arrived, we began preparing a Pashamanca feast for lunch, using the traditional Incan method of underground stone cooking. First, piles of various potatoes, corn, bananas & beans were placed in the pit then covered with chicken, pork & lamb. After more stones and layers of cloth covered the feast, it was left to roast for 45 minutes. Yummy! We’ll need the nourishment for tomorrow’s long day of hiking.

Child Birth, Marathons & Machu Picchu

They say they are certain things in life that while you are doing them you say to yourself, “I will NEVER do this again!” I can’t testify to childbirth but can promise you are not considering another marathon as you cross the finish line after running 4+ hours. This trek to Machu Picchu is a lot like that.

Yesterday was described as our toughest day of the trek. I can only hope that advertisement is true. The prior evening I got a case of Incan revenge & spent most of the evening & trekking day, cramping & nauseous. For the life of me, I can’t think of what I ate or drank, although I have caught myself about to rinse my toothbrush at the tap several times.

After an early morning start, our band of 11 hiked up the Rio Blanco valley, circling Humantay Peak. After reaching the highest point of our trek at 15,000 ft., we stopped for obligatory pictures at the sign marking the peak. The air was thin as we took in the views of the glacial moraines & the surrounding Vilcabamba Range. The GI issues left me very weak- I was just focused on moving one foot in front of the next & had to take constant breaks to catch my breath. I could not have been happier to arrive at our lodge (still at 12,000 ft). I knew in my heart, there was no way I was not going to finish this day- no matter what! This day was truly one of the toughest endeavors I’ve undertaken but as they say, “What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger” and already, I find one day later, the pain of the day has started to fade & is replaced by memories of the beauty that surrounds me in these mountains. I wonder if childbirth works that way? I did do another marathon so I can only imagine it does.

It Takes A Village

I assumed we would be a rag-tag band of hikers with a few well-seasoned guides to help us on our adventure. I had NO idea what a big production this was. Our group of 11 trekkers is supported by a virtual village… 2 guides, 2 chefs, 5 porters, 5 wranglers & 12 mules- not to mention the existing lodge staffs. As the hiking began, I began to see why.

Bright & early; up & at ‘em. We headed out for our 4-hour trip to a glacial lake today. Our lodge is situated at a breathtaking 11,800 feet & today we will ascend to 14,000 for a picnic and optional quick swim. None of my training hikes prepared me for today. I thought my heart would jump out of my chest. Actually, several times I hoped an Incan God would grab it out of my chest and offer it up as a human sacrifice. Frequent stops to avoid cardiac arrest were extremely helpful. We’ve lost one team member to food poisoning and one was on the mule today feeling puny.

Tomorrow is the big day. A windy & chilly 9-hour hike to over 15,000 feet. I will have to wear every item of clothing I brought- along with those I haggled for in Cusco. Honestly, I am terrified but know there is no turning back at this point.

Been There, Done That

Greetings from Salkantay Lodge in the Andes.

Before we left Cusco, we had dinner at a local restaurant to try the local delicacy, cuy (pronounced COO-ee). Let me add eating Guinea Pig to my list of “Been there, Done that, Don’t need to do again." And no, it doesn’t taste like chicken. The little teeth staring at me were the biggest issue.

It was an interesting drive up into the mountains. As we crawled up switchback roads, farmers worked their patchwork fields of potato crops (they grow 180+ varieties in Peru.) Children in neat uniforms and knee socks walked along the road on their way to school. We visited the ancient Incan site of Tarawasi (from the tara tree and "wasi" meaning home.) Like all important building it was built using no mortar- stones are carefully cut and placed using Incan techniques to withstand earthquakes. Here the Incans placed their important people in cloths in the fetal position so that the mythical condor could carry them away to the next life.

Soon paved roads gave way to gravel as the air thinned. Often hotel brochures are more glossy & luxurious than the property itself. This lodge is nestled on a pampas with 360 degree views of the Salkantay Mountain & its neighboring peaks. All the comforts of home! Then came orientation…

My Day with the Sexy Woman

Apparently Peruvians & I can’t resist a parade!

This morning I planted myself on the church steps at Plaza de Armas (the plaza is said to sit in the exact center of the Incan empire) to enjoy the weekly military parade. It was interesting to see the dignitaries, militia in uniform and watch as the Peruvians proudly sang their national anthem.

These folks know how to throw parades. While the main parade is going on, other competing parades continued to break out. A local men’s club here… a scout troop there. But my favorite was the religious parade. I’m a sucker for anyone carrying a two-ton Madonna. She was covered in gold and was followed by smaller sub-Madonnas and a band of masked men drinking 1-liter cervasas.. I was fascinated as snippets of daily life unfolded- boys enjoying a final cell phone call and ice cream before their band began performing, the old ladies in their traditional bombin bowler hats, the local business men in their Sunday finery practicing drums for their own parade. What a wonderful weekly tradition!

As the festivities wound down, I went to visit the Sexy Woman. Sexy Woman is the local name for the Sacsayhuaman ruins (say it quickly and it does sound like Sexy Woman!) Translated, it really means “city of stone” but that name wouldn’t draw as many tourists, would it? Construction began in the 1440s, requiring 20,000 workers to finish the project. With its sweeping views of Cusco, the ruin once served as an important military position for the Incans.

Today, it served as my first test of stamina as I walked up to enjoy the site. Yes, my lungs burned and my breathing was labored but I thoroughly enjoyed it and also had the chance to make friends with a number of alpaca / llama up on the mountainside. I can’t tell them apart and even googled to learn this differentiating skill (www.ehow.com/how_5324124_tell-difference-between-llama-alpaca.html ) to avoid offending any alpaca / llama I may meet in the future.

Tonight we meet our fellow hikers for orientation. Tomorrow, let the games begin!

Machu Picchu, Here we come!

I feel like packing is my part-time job. I'm on final approach for my Machu Picchu adventure. I've had a number of queries as to what is Machu Picchu & why in the world I would want to go there.

Machu Picchu was selected as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World in 2007. This lost city of the Incas was thought to have been built around 1400AD but was later abandoned as the official site for Incan rulers a century later during the Spanish conquest. It was "re-discovered" in 1911 by US scholar and adventurer Hiram Bingham (the role model for Indiana Jones) and has since become Peru's premier tourist destination.

My friend, Nicole, & I will depart from Lima to the town of Cusco (situated at 10,000+ feet) to acclimate to the altitude before heading up the Salkantay trail for our trek. While we'll reach heights of 15,000 feet, Machu Picchu is nestled in a lower valley. After our day in MP, Nicole will head back to NYC and I'll move to Reserva Amazonica, an eco-lodge in the Amazon basin. I'm hopping to encounter lots of interesting "critters" there.

We'll keep you posted on our progress. Adios!