Wednesday, February 3, 2016

BA: Paris of South America?

It's easy to see why Buenos Aires has the moniker, "Paris of South America."  In fact, several of its parks and important buildings were designed by Parisians.
No other major city (greater BA boast of 15 million residents) has allotted so much space to parks, trees and promenades. Its buildings have the majestic air of those in the Marais and statues and art dot the city's unexpected green spaces. As I strolled the cobblestone streets I didn't know whether to hum "LA Vie end Rose" or "Don't Cry for me Argentina."

But BA has successfully married history with modern necessities that actually work- and work well.  With its wide avenues (typically 8 lanes or more), clean subways & a vast network of bike lanes, you hardly hear a horn during peak hours.
portenos, the name for the locals, are a lively bunch and are fiercely proud of their traditions- soccer, polo, beef, wine (is it possible to have Malbec at every meal?) and importantly, the tango. Portenos visit late night milangas (tango bars), dancing into the wee hours, long after us tourists are hugging our pillows.

One thing that is odd is the queueing. Years of corruption and a revolving door of leadership has led to wild financial fluctuations. As such, ATMs at local banks only dole out a maximum of 300-600 pesos ($25-50USD) per day. Hence the long lines.
Gotta go- time for lunchtime Malbec. Don't cry for me, Argentina.

Monday, January 25, 2016

Patagonia: Land at the End of the World

Imagine the southernmost point of South America back in the 1500s. Explorers such as Portuguese adventurer Ferdinand Magellan were eager to find a way through the continent linking the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. He started his 2 1/2 journey in 1519 with three ships and 242 hearty souls. The sailing was hard
and dangerous work and ultimately many of the crew succumbed to hunger. By the time they had traversed the "Straits of Magellan" (hey, you find it, you name it) and crossed the Pacific, only one ship, the Victoria, and 18 crew members survived.

The region still requires a hearty soul to call Patagonia home. This  frigid region has only 150,000 residents sprinkled across its 150,000 acres. Brisk winds hammer endless plains of pampas grass while snow capped mountains dot the horizon. Here in the summer, we haven't seen a temperature above 45 degrees although sunlight lazily stretches toward 10pm. On the only major 2-lane road, you'll travel miles and miles before encountering a modest bodega for a toilet and simple but hearty meal.

What you will encounter are estancias. These massive sheep farms are the heart and soul of the region. Most stretch over 10,000 acres with an owner's hacienda, worker quarters and the core of the operation- the shearing shed. Lonely outposts are placed at the desolate corners of each ranch. Here, puesteros, the caretakers, live year round charged with mending fences and guarding the sheep from predators like pumas and foxes. This solitary existence has been known to drive puesteros mad and erodes their social skills to the point that they barely communicate with those who visit to drop off supplies.

Friday, January 22, 2016

Easter Island Today

The island, still the most remote location on earth, with over 1,850 miles to the nearest land, is is healthier position. A part of

Chile since 1888, 40% of the island is a National Park. More trees dot the land and regular flights and ships bring needed supplies and one particular treasured item- tourists. Close to 60,000 visit each year to marvel at the mystical moai. The Rapa Nui people remain loyal to their traditions, their families a their language while adopting newer behaviors like surfing, diving and eco-tours.

Who would have thought that the moai carved by the early settlers would end being a key to rebuilding a thriving civilization. I guess they do indeed bring good luck. 

The Decay: A Sad & Cautionary Tale

No one on the island ever thought their abundant resources would ever run out. So when it became apparent that all the trees were quickly disappearing (whether used for moving moai or cut for homes and boats) it was too late to take action. Without
boats to fish and resources for housing, the Rapa Nui  tribes
ultimately turned on each other and their monarchy. Many moai were toppled in efforts to make their rival tribes less powerful. Their population, once over 10,000 began to dwindle. Their religious norms went out the window and the Rapa Nui turned to an odd event to determine their leadership- the annual birdman competition. Each tribe selects one young male member to represent them in the competition requiring the competitors gather in Orango village to swim to a nearby island, climb a cliff wall to the top of the island, find a bird egg and safely ferry it back to the village. The first to accomplish this feat is named "birdman" and serves as leader for a year.

But, off in a cave nestled into a seaside cliff at the other end of the island, girls have been secluded for most of their young lives. They were taught by elders and kept in the dark cave so their skin remain light. A bride (or brides) are selected to be married to the birdman in hopes of delivering numerous offspring to add to the tribe.

As if deforestation, infighting and pagan rituals weren't enough, along came the Peruvian slave traders. Eager for workers in their mines, they took over 1,800 Rapa Nui and through disease and neglect, killed all but 150. Missionaries secured their return but by the time they completed the arduous journey home, only 15 survived. These survivors brought disease to the island, killing off all but 110 Rapa Nui. Once again, immigration of new settlers was key to their survival.

The Golden Age: Legend Has It...

...that Polynesian adventurers set sail around 1200ad heading east in search of a
heavenly island seen in dreams by their king. He set foot on Easter Island at Anakena Beach. The settlers learned to farm the rugged land and live off the bountiful sea. Life was good. More settlers came and they settle into tribes. Pretty typical story to this point. 

The came the moai statues. Rapa Nui tribes used the mountains of the Rano Raraku quarry to carve immense statues of their leaders and VIPs. Made from tuf, a soft rock, the moai were actually carved while still in the mountainside then "freed" and later moved around the island to permanent sites with their tribe. The moai were not "alive" until their eyes were carved on site. They faced their village to provide protection and symbolize fertility of land and people. 

The mystery of how the moai were moved is unknown to this day. How were the statues- over 1000 still remain- moved without machinery to their final resting places? Remember, these statues are as tall as 37 feet tall and weigh several tons. Were they laid down and moved using logs or wheels of some kind? Were they standing and nudged along by crews with rope? How were the heavy red rock topknots placed on the moai heads? The mystery remains to this day although theories abound.

PS: If you are thinking of visiting Easter Island, check out Easter Island Travel for exceptional tours.