Sweet As...

In New Zealand, if you like something a lot or think it's really cool, you'd call it, "sweet as."  Not "sweet as something", just"sweet as." 

Our tramping trip to Milford Sound ended with - a cruise through the massive Fiordland National Park and it was "Sweet As." The crystal clear water in the park is so deep that cruise ships can’t reach the bottom to anchor. I lost count of the massive waterfalls tumbling into the sea. Our captain tucked the boat alongside one- delighting and drenching those on the top deck! Fur seals struck a pose on rocky outcroppings along the snow-capped mountains as kayak paddlers broke through the mirror-flat waters. Unfortunately, photos just don’t do the fiords justice so you’ll just have to plan your own trip to see them.

Back in Queenstown, we grabbed one last walk along the water, said goodbye to our mountain views and toasted our accomplishment in a pub with a group of fellow walkers.

From this trip I took away the great respect and stewardship the Kiwis have for their land. I didn’t see one piece of trash on the entire trip. An active and low impact lifestyle is the norm for most and they are more than pleased to share their lovely country. So grab your backpack and jumper, put on your sunnies and head on down for a flat white- Sweet As!

I'd Rather be in a Staff Meeting...

On the third day of our Milford Track hiking adventure, as we continued our ascent to the Mackinnon Pass, I heard something come out of my husband’s mouth that I never thought I’d hear. As we slowly slogged up the trail he muttered, “In six years of retirement, I never thought I’d say this but I’d rather be in a staff meeting!”

I can only hope his momentary lapse was due to the arduous climb through the fog to the highest point of our hike, named for the fearless Quintin Mackinnon who pioneered the track in 1888. I hoped that the descent, albeit a rocky one, would raise his sagging spirit and ease his tired legs.

The Milford Track, often called "the finest walk in the world", is the capstone to our three-week adventure. Most recently, we’ve made our way down New Zealand’s mountainous South Island, enjoying breathtaking vistas, snow-capped mountains and the easy-going vibe that is synonymous with the Kiwi lifestyle.

After departing from Franz Josef glaciers we dropped off our car in Queenstown. Jeff was glad to hand over the car keys after days of mountain switchbacks and more than a few white-knuckle moments on the road.

Queenstown was originally settled in the 1860s during one of New Zealand’s gold rush periods.  It now serves as their center for extreme sports. A walk down the main drag affords opportunities to partake of bungee jumping, sky diving, paragliding and rafting. In the winter, it serves as a hub for skiers.  Ringed by the Remarkable mountain range and sitting on glacial Lake Wakatipu, the town of 12,000 swells to over 30,000 at peak periods. Proud locals will share that the lake is 99.999% pure so you can go ahead and fill your water bottle right from the lake! Jeff was itchy to put a line in the water to snag one of the huge trout calling the town pier their home.  A 15-minute transfer left us at the Shotover River where we boarded a speedboat for a rock-hugging, high-speed ride own the winding river. We pulled 360s within inches of the rocky canyon walls.

At our Saturday briefing, we met our fellow hikers, were issued our gear and received final instructions for the upcoming hike. This is my first hiking trip carrying more than a day pack- we carry all our clothes, drink, lunch and other needs on our back. We spent the evening paring down and dividing up essential items (OK, we spent the evening tasting New Zealand wine, but we talked about packing while we drank).

The drive to the trailhead was spectacular- passing sheep and cattle stations and meandering streams. After a quick ferry ride and hike, we arrived at Glade House, our first lodge for the trip. Remember, all the materials used to build these 50-person lodges had to be carried in by boat, helicopter or on foot. Several succumbed to fire or avalanche and required rebuilding.  The effort makes the structures with their picture-perfect views even more impressive. We settled in to enjoy a hearty supper with our fellow trekkers- mainly from Australia, Japan and the US.

Each morning we were awakened by Genny. Genny is not a saucy New Zealand gal. Since power goes off each evening at 10pm when the “Genny-rator” is turned off, for an eye-opening wake up call we were instructed to leave our lights on and enjoy a bright wake up when the “Genny-rator” came on each morning.

The first day hiking is always a bit shaky. You find yourself questioning how much food and water to bring, what pace to keep and how much clothing to wear. Nights include reassessing your pack and tending to sore muscles and blisters (OK, again they also include wine and stupendous views). Day Two was when Jeff informed me (as he did in Kili) that I should include my next husband on any future hikes. His painful gate resembled that of Kramer in the Seinfeld episode where he wore the really tight jeans and walked like Frankenstein.

To get a sense of the often rocky inclines, one 9-mile day took eight hours to complete. This was followed by a 13.5 mile day- all carrying a 20lb. pack. It has truly given me a new appreciation for the joint pain and increased effort required to carry even small amounts of additional weight. Can you spell Weight Watchers?

Our final day was spent hiking on rain forest trails lined with giant ferns and waterfalls. The trek was arduous but rewarding when we gathered with our fellow hikers for the ferry to our final lodge.

You may wonder (as Jeff often pointed out) why a person would put themselves through such effort- especially on vacation! The challenge and ultimate achievement of the goal is compelling. Sharing the experience with new-found friends is equally memorable. The encounters with exquisite scenery and wildlife are something you can’t see from a tour bus.  And in the end, it’s better than ANY staff meeting!

Ice, Ice Baby

The weather fairies were with us again for our morning helicopter ride to Franz Josef glacier.  Due to fog and visibility, it was touch-and-go if we would fly but we were the only group to make it up to the glacier for the day. Once the copter landed we strapped on crampons to grip the ice. The glacial terrain is constantly on the move so the crew carries axes to cut stairs to create paths to various ice caves. It makes for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

Skipper vs. Barbie: the Battle of the North Island

When I was a little girl I had a Skipper doll. Skipper was Barbie’s younger scrappier cousin.  She wasn’t nearly as glamorous as Barbie but she what you’d call “spunky” and was the kind of doll that could probably throw a good softball pitch.  I SO wanted to love Skipper but Barbie was the one with the cool beach house and metrosexual boyfriend. How could you resist her charms?

That was how I feel about Wellington. It is the Skipper of New Zealand’s north island, living in the shadow of glamorous and well-heeled Auckland. Both have beautiful waterfronts dotted with sailboats and breezy restaurants. While Wellington lacks the population and size of Auckland, as the country’s capital it has a substantial government center. Its local universities give it a youthful quality with areas full of ethnic restaurants and pubs for watching “footie” games. While Auckland’s movers and shakers enjoy cocktails at trendy locavore restaurants, Wellington’s after-work crowd gathers on lawns at local rowing clubs along the quay. Our favorite time in Wellington was spent walking the miles of nature paths in the city’s Botanical Gardens. Their outdoor café in the rose garden was a perfect spot for brunch and a glass of crisp wine.

To get to the south island, the most practical way is via ferry. The boat is huge- full of people on foot, in cars and in caravans (the Kiwi equivalent of RVs) as well as large trucks hauling goods between islands. The four-hour journey was pleasant- they even have a kids’ play area, a casino and show two movies on the crossing. It took a good hour to load us all onto the vessel and they strongly reminded travelers to note where their vehicles were parked- much like a Jersey shopping mall parking structure. I can only imagine the honking if we were to lose our car among the many decks and bring disembarkment at a standstill.

Our first stop on the south island was a special one.  We’ve settled in to a lovely cottage tucked into the countryside in the south island Marlborough wine country. Run by a lovely couple, we’re staying in a sheep-shearers cottage on a small property complete with sheep, deer and chickens (who are kind enough to supply eggs for our morning breakfast). We can barely bring ourselves to leave the idyllic property (but I did get a special run and bike ride through the vineyards!) The owner, Paul, has taught me how to make a flat white coffee-a complex procedure that includes warming cups to the optimum temperature before filling.  He would cringe if he knew I had CoffeeMate in my suitcase. Paul has a ’55 red Morris convertible- a cross between a Mini and Alfa Romeo. We were so taken with the little sportster that he gave it a washing and chauffeured us to a special dinner at the Hertzog vineyard. What a memorable evening!

After a side trip to the famous west coast Pancake Rocks with their powerful blowholes, we’re now settled in to Franz Josef, getting ready for tomorrow morning’s helicopter ride to our glacier walk. 

Our Date with Mt. Doom

OK, not really Mt. Doom. Ngaurahoe is the mountain featured as Mt. Doom in Lord of the Rings. We are heading off to hike its next door neighbor, Mt. Tongariro. New Zealand takes its LOTR stories so seriously- we think there should be a drinking game involving Jagermeister every time someone says “hobbit.”

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is arguably one of the finest day hikes in the world. We are using it as a dry run for our 4-day Milford Track hike at the end of our trip. Due to high winds, blistering cold and volcanic ash, the trail has been partially closed the last few days.  Luckily (or not so luckily) the trail is open for our day of hiking. 

We literally have on every item of hiking gear and clothing we brought.  Loaner gloves allowed Jeff to leave his hand-socks at home. Wind gusts of 35mph cut through our clothes but luckily the sun peered out to warm things up a bit.  With the trail closing, we did an out-and-back hike for 6+ hours instead of the full 8-9 hour adventure. The topography was striking.  Much of it appeared like a rocky Mars- dotted with small drought-tolerant succulents and rocky terrain. Later, streams and lichen made for a more verdant landscape. One crater area was covered with rolling clouds at our feet as we walked across the flatlands.

Probably one of the best views was actually from the huge windows at the Schnapps Bar at the foot of the mountain. Well, at least it was warmer! And they had Jagermeister… just in case!

Kia Ora, My Little Kiwi!

Kia ora, Welcome to New Zealand. After a long journey we are safe and sound in middle earth as Hobbit aficionados know New Zealand. The country is full of national parks, volcanos, wineries and sheep (due to sheep “emissions” the country can’t meet its limits of the Kyoto Accord). One thing it’s not full of is people.  Only 4.2 million live in the entire country- three quarters live in the North Island. OF these, I believe two thirds are cute guys with even cuter accents!

About 12 percent of the population is Maori, the local indigenous people. According to Maori legend, the demigod Maui sailed from Hawaii in his canoe and caught a huge fish. The fish is supposedly the north island while his canoe is the south island. This week the country celebrated Waitangi Day, marking the date in 1840 when the treaty was signed between the British and the Maori. I must admit I’m having trouble with the Maori words- particularly the names of small towns. Most start with “W” or “T” and are tongue-twisters like Whakatane, Waitara and Waipukurau. To further complicate things, the “wh” is pronounced like “f”, “r’s” are rolled like “d’s” and “a’s” are like “ah.” You should hear me calling out directions from the map.

We settled in quickly into Auckland, the nation’s largest city. The “City of Sails” wraps nicely along the water and boasts of 70,000 boats in its harbor. The quay is dotted with trendy bars and outdoor cafes. Auckland is a livable city with their own version of Central Park (the Domain) and Ponsonby, a leafy neighborhood of wooden Victorian homes and cafes. Jeff was elated to find the Superbowl available at a nearby 115 year-old tavern. I guess Beyonce goes beyond all borders.

We’ve become addicted to flat whites- the ubiquitous creamy latte-like coffees offered in every café. I do love my froth but these are beyond description. I’m also feeding my sweet tooth with hokey-pokey, a yummy butter brittle ice cream, and pavlova, the feather-light national dessert much like a gooey merengue. Thankfully, our itinerary is jam packed with activities to work off these treats.

After Auckland we ventured to Waitomo for blackwater rafting in the area’s famous glow worm caves.  This is one of those activities that you can do in other countries but would never be allowed in the litigious US. After suiting up in heavy wet suits and selecting a size-appropriate inner tube (if you sit in it and it sticks to your bum, that’s the one!) we hiked down to Ruakuri Cave. After slithering under low hanging stalactites (remember, stalagmites have a “g” and come from the ground while stalactites have a “c” like ceiling!) we cascaded down freezing underwater waterfalls. Once we dimmed our headlights, we were amazed by the light show of millions of glow worms dotting the ceiling. What a sight! Unfortunately they don’t allow cameras as they want you focused on not drowning or causing bodily injury, so I’ve had to attach a photo from the tour company. 

Next up… hiking the Tongariro Crossing, supposedly one of the finest one-day hikes in the world!  I had better juice up on flat whites!