Camino: O'Cebreiro to Triacastela

31/05/19
What goes up, must come down. That means a day of downhill today. We practice careful steps & using our poles to balance. We're blessed with no rain yet. We're literally sandwiched into small herds of cattle traveling from town to town. Villages provide frequent cafes.  Views continue to feed our souls.

The downhill continues but so do the views. FInally, as I near Triacastela, I find the old tree- confirmed to be over 800 years old. Its gnarly trunk is impressive. Our little aubergue is delightful. Our first floor (yippie!) window opens out to the courtyard where Asian pilgrims sit with their feet in tubs of cold water while other pilgrims seek a wifi signal. We hand laundry out our window & the host hands us extra pillows through the open window. It's so familiar & casual. We've forgotten it is a Friday & seem perplexed when we hear people out at the nearby bar after 10pm.  Crazy talk!

22k to Triacastela (population 900)

Over 800 years old.  The tree, not me

Camino: Trabadela to O'Cebreiro

30/05/19
In many ways, today is one of the tougher days on the Camino Frances. You've put together a string of hilly & rocky days to get to this point. In our case, temps are rising, making hikes a bit uncomfortable. I'll quit my bitching & get after this mountain.

We enjoyed a long stretch to Herrerias- scenic vistas, rolling hills, green for miles, motivational quotes painted on rocks & frequent small towns with cafes.

In addition to climbing to O'Cebreiro today, we'll be entering the Galicia region. Fiercely independent, Galicia has their own distinct dialect & different words than my Spanish so far. It's known for its gusty winds from the west, rain & colder temperatures and several unique dishes... caldo gallego (a local hot soup),pulpo (octopus dusted with olive oil & paprika) and tarta de Santiago (a famous almond tart.) And then there is the famous O'Cebreiro cheese & honey.  I probably should have eaten before writing this section.

Back to the mountain. It is possible to rent a horse for the steep ride up to O'Cebreiro. Those of us who don't opt for that approach get to enjoy the scent following the trail horses. We stepped gingerly on narrow trails. I'm a big "pull the bandaid off" person so I scampered up the miles of incline to end the pain quickly. I was greeted by welcoming signs to Galicia and then a bit farther along, with exceptional views of O'Cebreiro. 

This tiny hamlet barely looks as if it has been touched by progress. Rock buildings, thatched huts, stone paths & minimal overt tourism make O'Cebreiro seem as if it has been in a time capsule. The tiny church is lovely & is the final resting place of Don Elias Valina Sampedro, the parish priest credited with preserving the integrity of the Camino and clearly marking the route with consistent brightly-colored yellow arrows.

We were fortunate to have space in the tiny inn to avoid further travel that day. Betty got her first pulpo. We did laundry.  Life is good.

20k to O'Cebreiro (population 50)

Camino: Villafranca del Bierzo to Trabadela

29/05/19
Today was a short but hilly day designed to leave us fresh for tomorrow's steep climb up to O'Cebreiro.

The choice, as our direct German friend Nicole put it is, "take the main Ruta Carratera path which is flat & ugly or take the alternative Via Pradela which is hard but pretty." We opted for beauty & were rewarded with stunning views along the Valcarce valley. Luckily, the morning was shady and cooler as we huffed & puffed up the mountain trail. At one point, we had to forge our own steep path to find our way down to the tiny village of Trabadela.

Trabadela was just what the hiking Gods ordered for today. We found a sunny cafe with space to spread out to paint & journal. A bottle of wine & lunch late & life was looking pretty good. After a fresh vegan dinner, we declared the day a success & tucked in to rest for the big climb tomorrow.

12k to Trabadelo (population 450)

Camino: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

28/05/19
First of all, it is hard to believe I have been on the trail one month today. But on the other hand, it seems like I have been traveling the path for a long time.

Today was one of those days that I knew nothing about when I started. No one had alerted me to spectacular sights or drop dead views. Boy, did that change as the day progressed. In fact, this stage was one of my favorite on the Camino.

Betty elected to stay in Ponferrada to enjoy the Templar Castle & nurse some foot issues. I left early with fellow pilgrim, Nicole. She greeted me with a chocolate croissant (always a good omen)  & we quickly took in the street art & small neighborhood churches on the outskirts of the city as we strolled out of Ponferrada. We happened into a pilgrim winery offering tapas & wine tasting on the trail. While there, we picked up other interesting travelers.

As we navigated a forest path, around a bend was a slice of heaven. A festive food truck with healthy treats was tucked in amongst the foliage. It featured a full living room, complete with sofa, chairs, TV, a hammock & a picnic table. They even had a cute dog who singled me out as the weak link to most likely to give him some queso. After filling our bellies & bidding adieu, we immediately happened into a man selling big paper cones full of local cherries.  If my head wasn't already about to explode, we then ended up in the picture postcard town of Cacabellas with its tiny ivy-covered inns, creative murals & historic churches.  Needing a final bit of energy for the last portion of the hike, we ended up in a quirky donativo aubergue serving up fresh juice & good karma. Fortified, we energetically covered the final 10k through vineyards on our way into delightful Villafranca del Bierzo. 

Our posada was directly on the Plaza Mayor convenient to restaurants and, even more importantly, a gelato shop, for our evening stroll through the parks of Villafranca & along the historic mansions of Calle del Agua.

26k to Villafranca del Bierzo (population 5000)

My nightmare job

A wonderful oasis in the woods

A break for a zuma

Adorable Cacabellas

Keep growing. I'll keep drinking

Camino: El Acebo to Ponferrada

27/05/19
Another long downhill day but luckily, with less stony path. Even so, we opted for the quiet road for some portions. 

Molinaseca was a lovely gem of a town. Tucked along the Rio Meruela, Molinaseca makes a grand entrance as you cross the medieval Puente del Peregrino over the dammed river, making for a perfect refreshing dip for tired peregrino toes. Imagine plopping down for a drink at a riverside cafe then waltzing down to the water for an ice cold foot bath.

We continued through vineyards as we entered the outskirts of Ponferrada (Spanish for iron bridge.) I had no idea the city was this expansive. It has survived & flourished due to its fortification with a river, fort & a spectacular Templar castle. Its size allows for numerous plazas & ornate churches.

15k into Ponferrada (population 69,000)

Blink & you will miss lovely Riego de Ambros

Nothing beats a cold dip when your feet are hot & tired

Our room with a view in Ponferrada

Camino: Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo

25/05/19
Today was one of the "big days" you always hear about when planning your Camino- Cruz de Ferro.

Cruz de Ferro, the tall wooden pole topped with an iron cross, sits atop one of the highest points on the Camino Frances.The monument was supposedly originally erected by the Celts, then dedicated by the Romans before later being renamed as a Christian site. Pilgrims bring a stone to represent a burden they wish to leave on the Camino. I chose to bring happy things with me to leave at the cross- a rock from a place that brings me happiness & a stone cross provided by a neighbor for my Camino.It's hard to think of all the thoughts, wishes, grief & hope that has surfaced at this site.

While I was prepared for the incline up & power of the cross, I wasn't fully expecting the rocky downhill. The problem was that the flowers & views were so spectacular than you hated to keep your eyes down to carefully maneuver across the lava-like rocky trails. I was glad when we finally rolled into tiny El Acebo. Even better, El Acebo had a spa & even betterer (yep, my word) was the masseuse, Jose. I had one of my top 10 massages, or maybe it was just one of the top 10 times I really needed a massage.

27k to El Acebo (population 37)

Color abounds on this leg of the Camino

Ascending to the famous Cruz de Ferro where pilgrims add a stone signifying a burden or wish

Sunset by our friend, Nicole

What goes up, must come down. Tough downhill paths into El Acebo

Camino: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

25/05/19
As we began our trek over Cantabrian mountains, we noticed a distinct Celtic influence & reference to the Maragato culture, centralized around Astorga & its nearby villages. Descended from Berbers, the Maragato men were traditional muleteers, transporting goods around the peninsula. Bierzo has become a recognized wine region. We also started to see pallozas, circular thatched stone buildings, and ever-present horreos, rectangular stone corncribs elevated off the ground to protect the crops from vermin.

We had a lovely morning surprise as we passed an unassuming local church on the outskirts of Astorga. We noticed pilgrim art & inscriptions. One of the parishioners brought us in to show off their vestibule. What a treat.

The tiny villages also pridefully paint & decorate their ornate wooden doors. And of course, each belfry has its resident stork nest.  

We were excited to finally make it to Rabanal del Camino as we'd heard so many wonderful things about the town and our aubergue. We happened into a choral rehearsal as the heavenly voices lilted through town & attended a Gregorian mass later in the evening. The Stone Boat, our cozy inn with three rooms, was a cocoon of comfort with historic touches. Our host, Kim, a former Key West resident did not disappoint with her scrumptious breakfast and special pilgrim sello. 
22k to Rabanal del Camino (population 50)

An unassuming church on the outskirts of Astorga was a pilgrim gem

A famous pilgrim mural on the church

Another steeple stork

The cowboy bar- a fun respite on the trail

A choral rehearsal lilting through Rabanal

Our cozy slice of heaven for the night.