Camino: Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo

25/05/19
Today was one of the "big days" you always hear about when planning your Camino- Cruz de Ferro.

Cruz de Ferro, the tall wooden pole topped with an iron cross, sits atop one of the highest points on the Camino Frances.The monument was supposedly originally erected by the Celts, then dedicated by the Romans before later being renamed as a Christian site. Pilgrims bring a stone to represent a burden they wish to leave on the Camino. I chose to bring happy things with me to leave at the cross- a rock from a place that brings me happiness & a stone cross provided by a neighbor for my Camino.It's hard to think of all the thoughts, wishes, grief & hope that has surfaced at this site.

While I was prepared for the incline up & power of the cross, I wasn't fully expecting the rocky downhill. The problem was that the flowers & views were so spectacular than you hated to keep your eyes down to carefully maneuver across the lava-like rocky trails. I was glad when we finally rolled into tiny El Acebo. Even better, El Acebo had a spa & even betterer (yep, my word) was the masseuse, Jose. I had one of my top 10 massages, or maybe it was just one of the top 10 times I really needed a massage.

27k to El Acebo (population 37)

Color abounds on this leg of the Camino

Ascending to the famous Cruz de Ferro where pilgrims add a stone signifying a burden or wish

Sunset by our friend, Nicole

What goes up, must come down. Tough downhill paths into El Acebo

Camino: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

25/05/19
As we began our trek over Cantabrian mountains, we noticed a distinct Celtic influence & reference to the Maragato culture, centralized around Astorga & its nearby villages. Descended from Berbers, the Maragato men were traditional muleteers, transporting goods around the peninsula. Bierzo has become a recognized wine region. We also started to see pallozas, circular thatched stone buildings, and ever-present horreos, rectangular stone corncribs elevated off the ground to protect the crops from vermin.

We had a lovely morning surprise as we passed an unassuming local church on the outskirts of Astorga. We noticed pilgrim art & inscriptions. One of the parishioners brought us in to show off their vestibule. What a treat.

The tiny villages also pridefully paint & decorate their ornate wooden doors. And of course, each belfry has its resident stork nest.  

We were excited to finally make it to Rabanal del Camino as we'd heard so many wonderful things about the town and our aubergue. We happened into a choral rehearsal as the heavenly voices lilted through town & attended a Gregorian mass later in the evening. The Stone Boat, our cozy inn with three rooms, was a cocoon of comfort with historic touches. Our host, Kim, a former Key West resident did not disappoint with her scrumptious breakfast and special pilgrim sello. 
22k to Rabanal del Camino (population 50)

An unassuming church on the outskirts of Astorga was a pilgrim gem

A famous pilgrim mural on the church

Another steeple stork

The cowboy bar- a fun respite on the trail

A choral rehearsal lilting through Rabanal

Our cozy slice of heaven for the night.

Camino: Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga

24/05/19
Astorga is charming, historic & happy. It's a perfect size to explore & enjoy without being frantic after solitary days on the trail. Most of the sights are tightly housing within the old city. According to legend, both St. James & St. Paul preached here. The city has passed along under Visigoth, Muslim & Christian rule so it features interesting architecture.

Once again, how does a small city garner such a special & awe-inspiring cathedral? In the same plaza stands the Palacio de Gaudi which was built as a palace for an archbishop until it served as a military headquarters. Astorga even has a Chocolate Museum. I couldn't understand the Spanish video or displays but I sure could understand the smell of chocolate- the universal language.

Once again, we had the pilgrim treat- a room right by the front door on the first floor. This parador was special in that it included a lovely courtyard where we were able to enjoy wine, ham & cheese while sketching & journaling.  A lovely night!
19k to Astorga (population 12,000)

The grand Astorga cathedral

A moment of relaxation at the Gaudi museum

The beautiful courtyard at our parador this evening