Saturday, May 25, 2019

Camino: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

25/05/19
As we began our trek over Cantabrian mountains, we noticed a distinct Celtic influence & reference to the Maragato culture, centralized around Astorga & its nearby villages. Descended from Berbers, the Maragato men were traditional muleteers, transporting goods around the peninsula. Bierzo has become a recognized wine region. We also started to see pallozas, circular thatched stone buildings, and ever-present horreos, rectangular stone corncribs elevated off the ground to protect the crops from vermin.

We had a lovely morning surprise as we passed an unassuming local church on the outskirts of Astorga. We noticed pilgrim art & inscriptions. One of the parishioners brought us in to show off their vestibule. What a treat.

The tiny villages also pridefully paint & decorate their ornate wooden doors. And of course, each belfry has its resident stork nest.  

We were excited to finally make it to Rabanal del Camino as we'd heard so many wonderful things about the town and our aubergue. We happened into a choral rehearsal as the heavenly voices lilted through town & attended a Gregorian mass later in the evening. The Stone Boat, our cozy inn with three rooms, was a cocoon of comfort with historic touches. Our host, Kim, a former Key West resident did not disappoint with her scrumptious breakfast and special pilgrim sello. 
22k to Rabanal del Camino (population 50)

An unassuming church on the outskirts of Astorga was a pilgrim gem

A famous pilgrim mural on the church

Another steeple stork


The cowboy bar- a fun respite on the trail

A choral rehearsal lilting through Rabanal

Our cozy slice of heaven for the night.


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