Midnight at the Oasis

I can’t say enough good about this lovely country and its people, but like its ubiquitous mint

tea, Morocco is an acquired taste and one you must share a while with a local to fully enjoy its full flavor.

Even before landing, we were struck by the verdant beauty of the country- not what we had imagined from years of Sahara desert films. The country produces tasty figs, olives, fruit and dates- all creatively and precariously displayed in local medinas.

Each city maintains its own unique qualities and sensibilities. But regardless of where you travel, you’ll see new highways and construction alongside historic mosques, ruins and fortresses.

Rabat, Morocco’s political capital, is a city going on about its business. While quite walkable with history readily on display, tourism takes a back seat to running the country and educating its people. 

Fes is an antidote to your daily life. In its sprawling Fes El Bali medina, the world’s largest car-free urban area, it’s virtually impossible to keep a sense of direction or time. In fact, it best to allow yourself to be transported by the scents and bedlam of the medina. Put away your map and arm yourself with a camera and small currency and prepare yourself for an assault to your senses.  Moroccans have never heard of the grid system. With miles of chaotic stalls laden with produce, leather and linens, there’s nary a name for a lane or anything resembling a straight path. Yells of, “Belak, Belak” warn you to quickly step to the side of your path to avoid an unfortunate crash with a burro delivering goods. Carpet stores greet you with tea and small talk before the world’s best salesmen share their fine rugs with a muffled “thump” as each carpet is rolled out and you are urged to feel the quality of each piece. Somehow they can pack a full-size carpet into a bag no bigger than my toiletry bag. Follow your nose to the Chouara Tannery where workers use traditional techniques to dye hides, constantly stirring to ensure they evenly accept the vats of color. Here we stayed in Riad Salaam Fes, a “repurposed” palace now serving as a sumptuous boutique hotel and restaurant. 

My favorite city, Marrakesh, is part P.T. Barnum and part oppulent riad hotel. Outside the medina, car traffic seamlessly melds with horses, scooters and taxis. Camels are parked and waiting outside the local mall. Inside the labyrinth of the medina be prepared for anything. Small souks and food stalls are nuzzled between snake charmers, henna painters and my favorite, the local dentist, proudly displaying the hundreds of sets of dentures, all waiting for your chomping pleasure.  Marrakesh, the city of Ochre, is ready and waiting for its sophisticated visitors. Behind even the most unassuming door often stands a lavish riad with a citrus-laden garden and top-rated rooftop restaurant.

I’d never even heard of the seaside hamlet of Essaouira but after a day wandering the fishing village, you can see why Moroccans gather here for holiday to enjoy the relaxed attitude, salty breezes and fresh seafood.

But the star of Morocco is the Sahara. It’s been the stuff of dreams since Casablanca and Indiana Jones films. It’s now a popular film production location due to low cost and ready production sets. As we neared the desert, we encountered goats perilously perched high in trees to enjoy hard-to-reach tasty Argan nuts high up in the trees. A highlight of our adventure was an overnight stay in a Berber tented camp. After a sunset camel ride, it was special to take in the stars without city light polution. Hot water bottles and heavy carpets awaited you in bed to keep you cozy on the chilly night.

Although we travel often, I was surprised how little English was spoken. This goes back to the fact that Morocco was once a protectorate of France and that currently, Muslims and the nomadic Berbers live side-by-side. Signage typically includes Arabic, Berber and French. I was also admittedly surprised by the open kindness and humor of the Moroccans.  Even in the busiest medina where I was often lost and cried out “tourist” with my blond hair and pastel clothes, vendors used my map to point me in the correct direction. Even in a busy urban Casablanca neighborhood, when I asked where I might find a particular item, a shopkeeper had one of her staff walk me to a nearby store in hopes of finding the item.

To quote a famous person (OK, Jeff Blakely), if Morocco is on your bucket list, don’t wait. If it’s not, consider adding it. And go now!

Our adventure was featured in a marketing video of Morocco. If you are considering a trip, it is well worth a few moments of your time and prominently features my co-star, Jeff. Take a peek.