Costa Rica: Pura Vida

While Costa Rica may lack in size, it doesn’t lack in natural abundance. This tiny Central American country, about the size of West Virginia, accounts for 0.03% of the earth’s surface but is home to nearly 5% of the planet’s plant and animal species. With over 9,000 plant species, 2000 butterfly species and 876 bird species, it’s hard to avoid natural wonders. The country boasts of 12 microclimates resulting from the combination of mountains, valleys, and coastline. We’ve only filled up our gas tank twice yet have been to two steaming volcanoes, a misty cloud forest, numerous national parks teaming with wildlife, and beaches ringed by rainforests.

The Ticos, as the Costa Ricans call themselves, have an interesting heritage. When the Spanish landed here, unlike other Latin American areas, they didn’t find a large indigenous population with an established empire like the Aztecs or Mayans. The “Rich Coast” set off early in a peaceful direction and has headed that way ever since. While political upheaval and civil war have affected its nearby neighbors, Costa Rica is a stable democratic republic (with a female president) that is famous for lacking an army. Its agricultural exports- coffee, bananas and pineapple are spectacular, as is its major cash crop, eco-tourism. It now walks a fine line- encouraging tourism but controlling its impact on its valuable natural resources. We’ve also found it interesting to have internet everywhere we’ve stayed… you can’t get that in Europe!

What’s been amazing to us has been that our most fascinating animal encounters have not been in parks or reserves but as we casually went about our days. While enjoying coffee on our terrace at Manuel Antonio, a capuchin monkey jumped down off the roof to join us. I’m not sure who had a more terrified look- the monkey or Jeff! Our hotel restaurant had two sloths in the trees that we watched for hours before grabbing drinks. Iguanas would come beg snacks as you sat at the pool. Little need for park tours- most properties have their own trails with amazing viewing opportunities. Nature can be deafening as you awake to the calls of howler monkeys and tropical birds as they start their days. At night, you’re sure every sound from the jungle is a huge tourist-preying mantis.

One of our favorite experiences was a lovely morning horseback ride to Nauyaca Falls near the coast. After a typical Tico breakfast, our feisty horses led us up a rocky trail to a pristine waterfall where the guide strung ropes so that brave participants could climb the falls and jump into the pool below. Eager to get home for food, the horses galloped and trotted most of the way home- riders holding on for dear life. So many times we thought, “The lawyers in the US would have a field day with this!” Needless to say, all arrived safe & sound.

With only two days left, we head off to Uvita, a small coastal town down south. Hasta la vista.