India is a fascinating dichotomy. With a literacy rate of 74%, 58% of the population still use open toilets. Indians own the most gold per capita in the world and host elaborate weddings with guest lists into the thousands but income levels average less than $ 7,000 USD annually. In this country where historic and varied Hindu, Sikh and Muslim temples and mosques rest side-by-side, religious differences underlie long held enmity with its next-door neighbor, Pakistan. Yet, it continues to captivate us.
A heavy fog of pollution is omnipresent in Delhi. This governmental center of the country, Delhi is reminiscent of Washington DC with its wide boulevards and embassy row while Mumbai favors New York City as its financial and business capital. Delhi is made up of two distinct areas- Old Delhi, famous for its Mughal architecture and hectic labyrinths of footpaths, and New Delhi, designed by British urban planner Sir Edwin Lutyens, with its well-appointed rotaries and wide boulevards. We’ve enjoyed amazing architecture while learning about the country’s heritage. At Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque, we were issued what can only be described as festive hospital gowns to cover us properly for this holy site. We also visited the strikingly simple Gandhi Memorial. Bicycle rickshaws were our mode of transportation as we negotiated the chaos of Chandni Chowk, a congested commerce area selling everything from motorcycle parts to precious metals.
We particularly enjoyed Bangla Sahib Gurdwara, the massive Sikh temple. I’ll admit to a fascination of the stoic Sikhs with their elaborate turbans hiding the long hair required by their religion. After removing our shoes and socks, we were lent bright orange bandanas as head coverings. We washed our feet in the holy pool before entering the ornate gold covered temple. Imagine Trump Tower meets Taj Mahal with bling, bling, bling. Think golden altar, crystal chandeliers and gold-veined mirrors. A hold man with a feather fan continuously fans near the Holy Book to chase away pertinent flies who dare land on the book. Chanting and readings from sunrise to evening draw crowds who enjoy the temple’s meditative pools and on leaving, are issued a small sugar and ghee concoction serving as a Sikh communion of sorts. What a first day in this special place
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