Fare Thee Well & Adieu

Day 22  Mile 4617
Friday Harbor, WA

The word for today is, “QUAINT.” A west coast cousin to Martha’s Vineyard, from the moment you exit the ferry from Anacortes to the cacophony of sea gulls circling the marina

Adieu from Roche Harbor

you can feel your BP drop. Welcome to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island.

It’s hard to believe we are a mere 100 miles northwest of Seattle. With 176 named islands in this archipelago, 60 are populated and only a handful can handle the influx of visitors. San Juan Island, while the most popular for visitors with its charming inns, locavore restaurants, craggy shoreline and rolling hills. First settled by the Lummi Indians, the beaches are still desolate- mainly visited by families hoping to spot whales, porpoise or otter. We couldn’t resist a stop by the local alpaca farm or shops carrying local lavender.

On a long and bit arduous bike ride (hey we don’t have hills in FL!), we happened into Roche Harbor.  Originally settled in 1882 as the largest producer of builder’s lime on the west coast, owner John McMillin and his wife worked hard to create a welcoming home and lodging for their many guests and dignitaries, including Teddy Roosevelt. Their guesthouse is now Hotel de Haro, a traditional wooden structure now filled with photos and artifacts from the heyday of the quarry. Under new ownership, the cobblestone waterfront is now home to a tony marina, expanded luxury cottages, cozy restaurants and even a petanque court.  The stunning garden still remains - its pergola still painted with sayings to wish farewell to friends and businessmen as they left the grounds to return home by boat from the harbor. My favorite: “Your coming gave us pleasure, your going gives us pain.”