Going Down is Optional; Going Up is Mandatory

Let me take you on an adventure- a beautiful, challenging adventure into the Grand Canyon very few get to see.

Did you know less than 5% of the annual 6 million visitors to the canyon go below the rim? Of those 6 million tourists, less than 1% attempts a Rim2Rim hike. Three months ago I knew very little about this challenge. For the past two months I’ve lived & breathed it.

The Grand Canyon Rim2Rim hike typically begins on the canyon’s north rim and crosses through the canyon floor up to the southern rim of the canyon. The strenuous hike, typically taking 12-15 hours, most often begins before dawn at the North Kaibab trailhead at 8,241 feet with an elevation drop of 5,781 on the way to the canyon floor 14 miles in. Once you reach the Bright Angel trail on the south rim, you still have another 4,380 feet elevation gain before reaching the top at 6,860 feet, close to 25 miles later. The hike is typically done over several days with an overnight stop at the Phantom Ranch bunkhouse or one of the primitive campgrounds in the canyon floor. In these days of lotteries & permit requirements, I opted to do the entire hike in one day.

How does a flatlander (code for those of us who live at sea level) prep for this adventure? Luckily, we were camping out west so to train for hiking, I hiked. A lot. At high altitude. Carrying a hefty pack. I had no access to weights & gyms so I laced up my boots & hiked up & down every ski mountain I could find. I obsessed about nutrition (did you know pickle juice works wonders to avoid cramps?) & tested out salt tablets (critical to avoid hyponatremia) & electrolytes to keep me fueled. Since temperatures would range from the 40s to 100s throughout the day, preparing for both cold and blazing sun took a lot of thought. I read way too many websites that made me question my readiness & sanity of taking on the trek at over 60. Since I would make the trek alone, I found a group to handle logistics & provide a guide to sweep behind just in case of emergency. And I bought insurance as the only way out of the canyon in an emergency is via rescue helicopter- at a hefty price paid by the hiker.

As I nervously arrived at my room near the north rim, Jeff gave me a pep talk to assure me I was ready. I felt like Rudy before the big game! At that point I was most nervous about oversleeping my 3am wakeup call so I cut a deal with another hiker to call each other as backup. As we donned our cold weather gear & headlamps at 5am, we entered the canyon. The first 6 miles were the toughest for me- all downhill in the dark using poles to help with uncertain footing while fighting jitters. Once the sun began to rise, I could enjoy the view & settled into a groove, hoofing along at a steady pace, being sure to eat small snacks regularly & keeping up on fluids. My goal was to hit “the box” early.

 

“The box” is the nemesis for Rim2Rim hikers. It is the portion of the hike across the sweltering heat of the canyon floor from about miles 9-13. I’m talking temps that can reach 120 degrees in the sun. There are several campgrounds down here (one along the Colorado River) & a rustic stop, Phantom Ranch, where you can purchase snacks, refill water & get a refreshing lemonade. The Ranch also has the only Post Office delivering mail by burro- and you KNOW I love me some burros. After mailing cards, I went to the stream to get ready for the box by wetting all my clothes & towels to cool my temperature.

This turned out to be a poor move as 15 minutes later, the skies opened, pouring with whipping winds for hours. We hugged the sides of cliffs on the way up & gave up on trying to keep hats on our heads & our shoes dry. But, the rain was a blessing in disguise, keeping temperatures in the tolerable low 90s. The next hurdle is Indian Gardens where you mentally & physically face the steep ascent.

These last 5 miles are tough. One area, the Corkscrew, has 27 switchbacks. As your legs get more fatigued, incline & altitude increases. You begin to think someone is playing a cruel joke and these marked distances can NOT be correct. But you drag on- focusing on pulling yourself up one step at a time. Near the top you pass ill-prepared tourists heading down for a quick hike & think, “they have no idea what the hike back up will be like.” Darkness began to fall, cooling temps but the full moon came up, lighting our way for the final steps of the 14-hour trek.

If you ask me is it worth it?  Hell yeah. Would I do it again? Hell yeah. How few souls get to be among such beauty for an entire day? I was careful to heed advice I got to continually turn around throughout the day to enjoy the views I had just passed.  Did I ever think of quitting? Hell No… remember, starting the hike is optional. Finishing is mandatory!