Camino: Cizor Menor to Puenta la Reina

03/05/19
By jumping ahead to Cizor Menor, my hope was to beat the Pamplona crowds up the steep ascent to iconic Alto del Perdon with its famous windmills and pilgrim monument. It was careful footing on a rainy day up to the top with views of windswept green hills on the way to the top. I didn't know it but the statue depicting a band of medieval pilgrims walking forward against the wind was erected by an energy company. The inscription translates to, "Where the way of the wind meets the way of the stars." Pretty poetic for an energy company.

I took an hour-long detour out to the unique octagonal church of Eunate, tucked way out in the countryside. The lovely day was capped by an overnight stay in scenic Puenta la Reina (the queen's bridge.)

Tonight was laundry night- a glamour life, I know. Once home folding the warm items, I realized I was missing a sock. Normally, this isn't a cause for alarm, but on the Camino, this is serious business. I retraced my steps to the laundromat & was able to find & retrieve the runaway item. Bad sock! Stay!
20k to PLR (population 2800)

A typical backpack lineup at a cafe

Camino: Zabaldika to Cizor Menor

02/05/19

After leaving the tiny church in Zabaldika, I traveled through the largest city on my Camino, Pamplona, with a population of 200,000. After bucolic countryside, the city seemed harried & hurried, albeit beautiful, with its historic walled city, Cathedral Santa Maria el Real, gardens, many plazas & cafes, & the allure of treading the path used for running of the bulls in the annual Fiesta de San Fermin (the event draws over 1 million folks annually.) Spanish cities & towns are cleaned each night & sparkle in the empty early hours. It's a magical time to be quietly plodding through a medieval town. With a reservation confirmed I had ample time to sit with a cafe con leche in a Hemingway haunt on the lively Plaza Mayor. As a little sweet goodbye, I enjoyed considerable time in a wonderful city park & garden on the outskirts of Pamplona.

I continued ahead to Cizor Menor to get a jump on the crowds for tomorrow's big day to Alto del Perdon. It was a nice treat to have a full but same sex room- promising less snoring & better hygiene. I walked alone into the only restaurant in town & was immediately adopted by two adventurous couples who turned out to be some of my favorite people along the trail.

14K to Cizor Menor (population 2200)  + 10K in Pamplona

A view from historic Cafe Iruna in Plaza Mayor, Pamplona

Pamplona in a quiet moment

An ode to the running of the bulls