Camino: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

30/04/19
After clearing the Pyrenees & Roncesvalles, I wasn't prepared for the tough downhill & rocky slog to Zubiri. Somehow you get it in your head that the Pyrenees are the tough days you have to prep for, but it's just the first challenge in a long adventure. The small wiggly rocks were unstable & required poles & careful foot placement for mile after mile. I was so glad to cross the Puenta de la Rabia bridge (named for the belief that if animals were led over the bridge three times they would be cured of rabies) into Zubiri & spend a few moments enjoying the icy cold of the river on my hot & tired tootsies. Here I met Mr. Blister, a fellow with a pair of particularly gnarly feet. 
I stayed at a lovely aubergue, Suseia, with a communal meal and grassy courtyard that served as my outdoor yoga studio. My yogi, Caryn, would be proud

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22k to Zubiri (population 400)

Aubergue Suseia

Camino: Orisson to Roncesvalles

29/04/19

Still in France, I moved on from the homey Orisson aubergue. Aubergues are the Spanish word for shared communal living quarters, typically with bunk beds and shared shower quarters. These are particularly useful as a way of getting to know other pilgrims. Orisson is a favorite as it hosts a communal meal with a "sharing" session to meet over 50 fellow travelers. It is the only housing on the way over the Pyrenees so reservations are critical. I lost count of all of the countries folks at dinner were from. We had a couple from Idaho in their 60s, here on the honeymoon. One gentleman, Carter is turning 80 & his five children will be taking turns joining him on the Camino. There were lots of newbies like me & seasoned pilgrims with many Caminos under their belt.

The next morning weather conditions were good so we were able to cross the Pyrenees via the particularly scenic Col de Lepoeder approach (altitude 4757 feet/ 1450  meters) with a particularly dicey downhill. Just days before & after, the path was closed due to snow and wind & travelers had to be rescued from the mountain. With spectacular views, wildlife & even a food truck with steamy hot chocolate, it was a challenge but quite doable with careful footing.

18k with lots of altitude change to Roncesvalles (population 30). 

A chilly start

Snow angels

Well-deserved cervesas